V8 muscle cars are all kinds of fun – but it’s not necessary to have a V8 to have a muscle car.
Or at least, it’s not necessary to have a V8 to beat a muscle car.
Two frames of reference will make the point – about what a four cylinder modern muscle car like the EcoBoosted 2016 Mustang can do to an old V8 muscle car.
First frame of reference: My ’76 Pontiac Trans-Am. One of the biggest V8s ever put into a muscle car resides under its hood: 7.4 liters, 455 cubic inches.
But just 200 hp (well, when it was new).
Second frame of reference: The 1995 Mustang Cobra R – built as a full-competition (SCCA road racing) car, 5.8 liter (351 cubic inch) V8 (the last of them), a Tremec five-speed manual and not much else.
Not even a radio.
But the Cobra R – as serious a car as it was – only had 300 hp. And did zero to 60 in the fives.
And so does the new turbocharged four-cylinder Mustang. With a stereo. And climate control AC, too.
It also has 310 hp.
What doesn’t it have?
A few hundred more pounds of deadweight on the nose (vs. the V8 GT) so it handles better than the GT, too.
Did I mention 32 MPG on the highway?
Yeah. It does that, too. Â
WHAT IT IS
People think of the Mustang as a muscle car – but that’s not exactly it. And not just because the version this review will focus on has a leetle (2.3 liter) four cylinder engine instead of the usual (in muscle cars) big V8.
The Pontiac GTO (’60s version) … that was a muscle car. An intermediate-sized, two-door sedan upgraded with a full-size car’s V8. There were many others that followed in its wake. Super Bees and Chargers, Chevelles and 442 Oldsmobiles and Cobra Jet Torinos. Etc.
But the Mustang is – properly speaking – a pony car.
What’s the difference?
Pony cars (the others being Chevy’s Camaro and the Dodge Challenger) are smaller and lean closer in looks to sports cars, but still have four seats, rear-wheel-drive and – historically – big V8s.
The term “pony” car derives from the Mustang’s name. It and its imitators (Mustang appeared first, in 1964; arch-rival Camaro came out in 1967) were – and still are – called “pony cars” in homage to the ground-breaking Ford.
Ok.
This review will focus on a new breed of pony car – the four cylinder (turbocharged) pony car – as a counterpoint to the traditional (and still available) V8 powered iterations.
Both Ford – and Chevy – now offer this strange new animal.
The turbocharged (“EcoBoosted”) Mustang coupe starts at $25,645 with the six-speed manual transmission; a six-speed automatic is available for $1,195.
If you want a convertible, prices start a $25,645.  
For another $1,995Â (money very well-spent)Â you can add the Ecoboost Performance Package, which is basically all the V8 GT’s enhancements except for the V8 engine. It includes a 19×9-inch wheel/”summer” tire package, beefed up suspension (larger diameter rear sway bar, HD coil springs), a 3.55 limited slip rear axle, accessory gauge package, upgraded brakes, heavy-duty engine cooling and performance-tuned ABS and stability control.
Which brings the tab to $27,640 (with the six-speed manual) … which is a steal compared with the V8 GT’s base price of $32,395.
The EcoBoosted Mustang’s primary rival is the turbo four-powered Camaro, which starts at $25,700 for the coupe.
But there is no convertible version of the just-updated 2016 Camaro… at least, not yet.
Dodge’s Challenger – the other pony car – does not offer a four cylinder option (and like Camaro comes only as a hardtop coupe) so it’ll be excluded from this comparison.
WHAT’S NEW
The Mustang was “all new” – had a major redesign – last year, which was the first year in many years (since the ’80s) that a Mustang has been offered with a turbocharged four cylinder engine.
For 2016, the big news is that Ford’s awful MyTouch interface has at last been thrown in the woods. A much-improved Sync3 system replaces it.
The GT performance package upgrades are also now available with convertibles.
WHAT’S GOOD
Quicker/faster than most V8 muscle cars of the classic era; gets twice the gas mileage, too
Quicker/faster than most V8 muscle cars of the recent era – and costs thousands less, too.
Hardtop or ragtop. Camaro comes only in hardtop form.
Burnout-friendly traction control; power slide-enabling stability control.
New Sync system isn’t a PITAS to use.  Â
Costs about $1k less to start than equivalent Camaro.
Has usable back seats and a viable trunk; Camaro doesn’t.
WHAT’S NOT SO GOOD
No turbo whistle or wastegate pop; much too quiet intake/exhaust sound for a performance car.
Heavier than just-redesigned Camaro – so the Chevy’s just as quick, even though it has less engine.
UNDER THE HOOD 
History repeats – but with a twist.
Back in the ’80s and through the ’90s, Mustang outgunned arch-rival Camaro. Same now, only we’re talking fours rather than eights.
The Mustang’s Ecoboost turbo four is larger (2.3 liters) than the Camaro’s four (2.0 liters) and it’s stronger, too: 310 hp and 320 ft.-lbs. of torque vs. 275 hp and 295 ft.-lbs. of torque.
Up to 21 pounds of boost at full tilt makes it happen.
However, another bit of history also repeats – and this time, it’s not in the Ford’s favor.
The just-redesigned Camaro (which shares a platform with the Cadillac CTS) has been lightened up by several hundred pounds vs. the previous model – which was a biggie…. and a fatty.
Not anymore.
The four cylinder Camaro’s curb weight – 3,339 pounds – is lower than the Mustang’s curb weight of 3,523 lbs.
Back in the ’80s and into the ’90s, the Mustang had the weight and the power advantage – and so was quicker.
Not anymore.
It’s a dead heat between the two.
Each car is capable of a mid-five-second 0-60 run and a 13-something second quarter-mile. This will be a kick in the nut sack to the True Believers, but these cars perform better than the V8-powered version of the Mustang and Camaro did back in the ’80s and well into the ’90s.
The V8s also never delivered anything close to the four cylinder Mustang’s 21 city, 32 highway (22 city, 31 highway with the manual transmission). I averaged  27.3 MPG during a weeklong test drive… driving a lot faster and a lot harder than the government bureaucrats who do EPA’s mileage testing. Given what I managed, I have  no doubt the Ford is capable of averaging at least 30 if you drive it a bit less eagerly than I tend to.
Camaro’s mileage hasn’t been posted yet but should be in the same ballpark.
Possibly, better – because the new Camaro is available with an eight-speed automatic while the Mustang’s optional automatic has two fewer gears.
The manual transmissions that come standard in both cars are six speeds.
Both turbo fours – the Mustang’s and the Camaro’s – like premium unleaded. You can run the cheap stuff and it won’t hurt anything… except the power/performance. Knock sensors will notice you filled up with low octane swill and dial back the boost, which dials back the power on tap.
ON THE ROAD
The last time there was a quick four cylinder Mustang was back in ’84-’86, when Ford offered a special version of the Mustang called the SVO.
Interestingly, it was also powered by a turbocharged 2.3 liter four.
But the SVO’s power peaked at 205 while the 2016 Mustang’s 2.3 liter four produces 310 hp – about 100 more hp than the ’80s-era V8-powered Mustang GT offered.
The thing moves out, as you’d expect – given the numbers.
Turn off the traction control (it turns all the way off) and – if you’ve got the automatic – select Trac mode. Hold the brake pedal down and throttle up. The tires will begin to spin and smoke will billow. Hammer it – and let off the brake. You’ll be at 80 faster than the Cobra R (5.8 liter V8, 300 hp) I tested out 20 years ago got to 60. Â
My Trans-Am cannot hang.
But the turbo Mustang moves out quietly – and that’s the car’s sole flaw.
This is, after all, a performance car. Ja? People who buy performance cars appreciate the sounds of performance.
But there’s little of that in evidence. No turbo whistle … no wastegate pop.
Even the exhaust is econo-car quiet.
The 2.3 engine is a miracle of output-per-liter, courtesy of the 21 pounds of boost generated by the turbocharger.
Why hide its presence?
Unless you order the optional accessory gauge package, the only way to even know there is a turbo is by scrolling through the secondary digital menu in the main gauge cluster. It’s as if they are trading to hide the fact that you’ve got boost on call.
Why not accentuate this?
Instead, you hear very little – either from the engine or the exhaust. You feel thrust. And gear changes as firm as any old muscle car’s automatic with a bang plate installed. It launches hard and pulls hard (the only reason the tires don’t chirp on the 1-2 is because of the 19-inch whees/tires my test car had).
But some turbo whistle would be nice.
As would a factory available performance exhaust package.
Otherwise?
Bliss.
AT THE CURB
Ford gets kudos from me for managing to make this car look distinctive – like a Mustang – in spite of the general homogenization of car design caused by the federal government’s Inspector Javert-like micro-management of the car industry.
It’s gorgeous – and obviously a Mustang. Retro-new. Numerous styling elements (rear panel and brake lights, front clip; the Steve McQueen/Bullitt vibe) bring back memories of the classic-era cars; but the proportions are entirely modern.
It may be the best looking Mustang ever.
That’s subjective, of course – one man’s automotive chubby. Your mileage may vary.
One thing that’s objective is the car’s surprising superiority to the Camaro in terms of overall usability. Â Â
Chevy crows that the new Cadillac platform-sharing Camaro is hundreds of pounds lighter than the previous version – which it is. It is also several inches shorter overall – which is also good, because the previous car was just too damned big. Driving it sometimes felt like driving a very fast M1 Abrams tank, with 19 inch rubber instead of tracks.You felt like you had to straddle the center line to keep the thing on the road.
Well, the new Camaro is lighter and shorter… so much so that it’s almost a Corvette.
It still has rear seats (Corvette does not) but they are so embarrassingly useless that GM doesn’t even publish legroom specs. It’s that bad. And you don’t even want to know about the “trunk”… in air quotes to emphasize the absurdity of describing a space that’s 9.1 cubic feet small using that term.
The old car had an 11.3 cube trunk – which wasn’t huge. But not ridiculous, either.
Both cars are exactly the same length now – 188.3 inches – and nearly the same width through the hips (75.4 inches for the Ford vs. 74.7 for the Chevy) but the Chevy’s much more cramped inside.
In both rows.
Mustang has 44.5 inches of front seat legroom vs. 42.6 for the Camaro – while the Mustang’s backseat legroom (30.6 inches) is at least publishable while the Camaro’s isn’t. Headroom is also a problem in the Chevy: 36.6 inches up front vs. 37.6 in the Mustang and – again – the rear seat number for the Chevy is so bad it’s literally unmentionable. You will not find it in the official press kit – or anywhere else. That says something.
Something bad. Â
These cars are supposed to be “2 plus 2s” … meaning, they are supposed to capable of carrying four people, for short hops at least.
The Camaro’s claim to 2-plus-2 status is questionable at best.
Weirdly, the Camaro’s got a much longer wheelbase (110.7 inches vs. 107.1 for the Mustang). Which means more space in between the front and rear wheel centerlines. Which ought to mean more room in between …in at least one row.
It doesn’t.
And then there’s the Camaro’s Pagliacci tragic “trunk.”
Mustang’s is a usable 13.5 cubic feet. Worthy of being described as a trunk. No air quotes.
Another Camaro design weakness – this one the same as before – is too high door tops and a too-low roofline – which results in horrific outward visibility. It may look cool when you’re viewing the car from outside… but the Camaro’s a handful to manage in a busy traffic environment.
It’s a car that needs side cameras as well as a back-up camera.
Mustang doesn’t need any of that – although the back-up camera is included (because the government mandated them).
Its door tops are low enough that you can almost lean your elbow on them, like back in the ’60s. And the roofline is higher (54.4 inches vs. 53.1 for the Chevy) so there’s more glass area.
So you can see.
I love the Mustang’s retro-modern interior. Which – like the exterior – is both classic and modern at the same time.
You sit in front of a dual breadbox dashpad, looking at ’60s fonts on the speedo and tach.. looking out over a long hood with secondary turn signal indicators built into each forward corner. H.G. Wells’ Time Machine went into the future; this one takes you backward in time.
Before The Safety Cult ruined everything, sucked the joy out of cars and everything else.
But then you discover the Track Apps – including accelerometer and lap timer – and the toggle switches that let you alter the drivetrain’s personality without popping the hood and turning wrenches first.
And you realize it’s not 1969.
In a good way.
THE REST
Ford finally gave up on the god-awful MyTouch interface that probably cost the company a bunch of sales, despite the appeal of cars like Mustang.
Yes, it was that bad.
Tiny, inscrutable buttons you felt like you needed a Rosetta Stone to decrypt. And which were all but impossible to punch up accurately (see earlier point about them being too small) with the car actually moving.
Well, happy day – MyTouch has been sent off to the island of broken toys. The new Sync system is as good as the old system was terrible. Large, not-inscrutable buttons. Simple, intuitive menus. Pinch/swipe inputs, too.
So, no complaints.
The Ecoboosted Mustang – in addition to its punchy EcoBoosted engine – also gets upgraded from the base V6 Mustang’s 17-inch wheels to 18s, gets GT-style foglights and racy-looking aluminum dashboard trim.
Buy the Performance Package to add all the other GT-esque goodies mentioned earlier, including the more aggressive (3.55) axle and chassis/suspension/brake upgrades.
You can add Recaro sport buckets, too – and still be out the door for not much over $28k – easily $4k less than the base price of a base trim GT.
You might also want to insurance cross-shop the turbo vs. the V8.Â
THE BOTTOM LINE
The new Camaro’s better in some ways, but arguably more compromised in other ways than the previous version.
The Mustang, meanwhile, does everything a latter day muscle car ought to do exceptionally well.
Except sound the part.
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So the exhaust is too quiet? That’s such an easy fix. The expensive way is to put an aftermarket high-flow muffler on. The quick and cheap way is to take a screwdriver (phillips is recommended because the shaft is round) and poke a few holes in the stock muffler. I wouldn’t recommend the cheap fix because exhaust gases don’t all go out the back, but it’s your car and your call…
Hi Double Nickel,
Punching holes in the muffler is seriously sexual chocolate!
Or you can get it as hot as it gets, shove a waterhose up to the muffler with it full on and the engine revved up. That’s generally good to crack and start the muffler to degenerate and does a mahvelous job on a glass pack.
I appreciate the virtues of this Ecoboost Mustang. Agree that it’s a sweet package.
But I’d never buy one.
Every time I drove it more than a mile, I’d be thinking…………
“Gee, I coulda had a V-8!” 🙂
My wife bought a 2016 eco-boost Mustang. The car is gorgeous and she gets compliments all the time. Not only is it fast and nimble, but it’s luxurious too. She has heated and ventilated seats, a great stereo, Mustang shaped puddle lights, and a bunch of other stuff I haven’t even bothered to learn about.
It’s one of the few cars made today that still seems to have personality. I really like my 2013 Hyundai Azera and it’s a more practical car, but every time I drive her car, I think about trading it in for another Mustang…
The limiting factor with an Ecoboost engine is that the turbos are tiny to begin with. This ensures virtually lag-free throttle response when stock but when the boost is increased the turbos become inefficient; they spin too fast and raise intake air temps to very unsafe levels. Not to mention the increased compressor speeds destroy turbo bearings.
Chevy tends to put slightly bigger turbos on their cars so there is more room for tuning but it’s still a risky endeavour. One tank of bad gas will quickly destroy a modern tuned turbo vehicle since all of the margin for error has been eliminated.
Modern factory turbos will last as long as modern engines at stock boost levels. Just ask the long-haul HD diesel market how many times they have to replace turbos on their rigs.
I have no idea what the boost is like on these engines. A large amount of engines with turbos now have variable boost in some form. Even big rig diesels now have some sort of variable boost. eric mentions no turbo whine. Even that is something you don’t even hear big diesels do these days because the whine is non-balance. I hear big rigs take off from a start and being driven hard but nearly no turbo sound. It’s sorta of eerie but just taking the time and effort to balance the blades. If you’ll notice, no GM engines ever had a whine. The closest you’ll come to hearing turbo whine in most pickups these days is when idling or close to it. A bit of turbo spin can be heard when one is idling but goes away once it begins to rev.
Good stuff, Pedro – thanks!
I wonder whether any meaningful improvement could be made on the exhaust side?
I expect a lot of owners will change the exhaust just so they can hear it. They’ll probably lose power (the manufacturers these days are pretty good at tuning intakes & exhausts for power & efficiency), but whatever makes them happy.
I put a straight tube in place of the muffler on my 6.5. Not a bit of difference I could tell except for exhaust sound.
Usually for turbocharged engines, the turbocharger itself is the biggest restriction on the exhaust side, so aftermarket stuff might not be as effective as for naturally aspirated engines.
However, for the turbo whine, that might change a few miles down the road. My father’s 2015 Astra J Station Wagon with the 1.4l port injection turbo (aka Buick Verano or some such?) does whistle quite a bit going up their driveway. It didn’t do that when completely new, and I was told there is some sort of suppression device in the intake that might get clogged by the oil coming from the PCV and which might get unclogged again further down the road.
However, it’s always nice to read your reviews from here. Good luck for the future!
Eight- the reason you don’t hear turbo whine on any modern engine is strictly due to the multiple emissions reducing components in the exhaust that muffle the sounds. On the 6.7 Powerstroke Diesel the DPF/Catalytic converter system is almost 7 feet long! Here is a video of a modern powerstroke without the emissions systems:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07JfAyXllic
Eric: I’ve heard conflicting reports about mods. The problem is that modern factory ECU’s are so good, most are programmed to run on the absolute ragged edge then immediately pull timing/add fuel when detonation is detected. That’s the main reason you can run 87 octane with sky high compression plus boost. A custom tune is a must when even doing basic bolt-ons to a factory turbo vehicle these days. Think of it this way…the old days of “easy horsepower” are gone. Cars are already tuned to their max from the factory. If you want to play, you have to pay mucho $$$ in the modern aftermarket.
Engines these days are built like tanks so the best strategy for more power is to simply bolt on a bigger turbo and crank up the boost. If that’s not enough power then crank up the boost even further. We received a pre-production 2.3L ecoboost to build up for a magazine. A simple valve pocket port job increased airflow by 70 CFM which is MASSIVE.
Good stuff, Pedro – as always!
Related: A good friend of mine is in the middle of an LS build; I’ve been tagging along (first time elbows deep in one of these things). The stock ports are (cue Paris Hilton) huuuge. No wonder these things make so much power. It’s going to be fun to put it all back together and see how what it makes with the new cam, pistons and high-flow injectors, etc.
Yeah I hear ya. GM did an amazing job with the LS series of engines. The LS7 is a 500HP race engine built to last 200k+ miles. Check out this article for our NHRA comp eliminator 830HP LS7 engine. It is still using factory block and head castings!
http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/dyno-testing/inside-secrets-sam-schools-825-hp-stock-eliminator-ls7/
Hi Pedro,
Yup, amazing!
GM is selling 550-plus hp (CTS-V, etc.) street engines, fully warranted, totally docile and “wife drivable.”
The Dodge Hellcat Hemi makes 700-plus hp and is also as everyday drivable as a Camry.
To get 700 hp out of my old Pontiac using a stock block, heads and crank would be a challenge – and while doable, maybe, the result would not be something you’d want to drive in stop-and-go-traffic!
I almost bought a new mustang. Ended up going for a mazda6. Don’t know if I regret it. This article doesn’t help. 🙂 Can Ford do anything about the rear headroom? Can they redesign it so I am not hitting my head against the back window, or would that cut into the ford fusion sales?
Hi Eric,
I’ll prob. never buy a new/modern car. You’ve touched on the multitude of reasons why in many of your articles. Reasons I happen to agree with. But if, if I ever did, this Mustang would be on the short list. Good lord is it ever gorgeous.
Isn’t it? 🙂
Now, if only we could – somehow – strip it of all the Uncle-mandated crap.
The thing about your 1970s-vintage engine is that there is a LOT of untapped performance potential in its as-delivered state. The factory left a lot of meat on the bone for performance enhancement. I’m not specifically familiar with your engine, but have seen people get in the range of 500HP out of AMC V8s even before adding supercharging or turbos. I expect you could do even better with a properly-built Pontiac 455.
Hi Jason,
Well, yes … and no.
Yes, there is a lot of untapped potential. Getting my 455 from the factory 200 to 400 is no big deal; really just a cam swap, a better set of heads (Pontiac changed CR via chamber volume rather than piston design), exhaust, tuning, etc.
But… it is much more of a challenge to build an old school engine like mine to over 500 hp – with the stock block, crank and heads. And be reliable and streetable.
The new V8s easily produce 400-plus hp in stone stock/factory trim (some much more) and most can easily be built to 600-plus hp and still be entirely reliable/street driveable.
To do that with an engine like my old Pontiac, you pretty much have to go with aftermarket heads at the least and even then, they get very hairy due to the flat tappet cam profiles you’re working with.
Cheap way is to give it a small supercharger that won’t break the crank. Recently Mustang’s have been seen exiting the GM proving ground. The word for a while now has been a Ford-GM co-designed 10 speed auto that will go in a great many vehicles, not just cars.
Soon to come, the all new Mustamaro and the Camstang. A bowtie with a running horse.
Word is, the new Camaro will be using a larger turbo 4 with AWD aka Caddy ATS. If GM farms that system out to Ford look for the new Mustillac with your choice of the GM or Ford 10 speed auto, the difference being the cast marks on the housing.
Soon we’ll be like the rental car agency in the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Walter asks the counter guy if they have any cars to rent. Yes, he says, we have a blue one and a red one……a double kick to the nuts.
I haven’t messed with one of these 2.3 engines but the first thing I’d look into is whether it’s helpful (and feasible) to increase the boost a few psi. That plus a performance exhaust ought to be worth another 20-30 hp.
Maybe a 3.73 axle …
I bet it would not be hard to get this car into the high fours, 0-60.
6 psi will get you 550+ hp & torque on stock poncho iron heads assuming you get the cam and tune right. Boost levels can be deceiving since any port/exhaust restriction will cause boost stack (boost numbers go up w/o any increase in flow, basically just adding heat). Will make signifcantly more power than a head/cam swap but will probably cost you double…..
I’ve always wanted to build up an ’80-’81 Turbo TA… with a turbo 400 or 455 in place of the 301!
PS: The lock-up converter in my 2004R is acting hinky. I can feel it coupling/uncoupling during coast; goes away when there is positive pressure on the throttle. I haven’t had time yet to check it out. I hope it is just that the power connection is on the fritz but it might be a solenoid or… something worse.
drives normally otherwise? make sure your throttle linkage/tv cable isn’t sticking.
the control solenoid normally isn’t hard to change but I can’t say I ever had to do it on a 200r4.
if the converter is bad then you have an excuse to get a nice 10″ 3k stall lockup converter 🙂
The wife’s Cutlass was doing that to the point of not even locking up. I changed the filter that looked ok and the fluid that looked new and installed Amsoil synthetic. It continued to not lock up for a day or two and then began to lock sometimes. After a couple weeks with a rebuild staring us in the face, it begin operating normally and the leak stopped in a month or so and has never leaked again in the following 2.5 years.
Making changes like that often have major downstream effects. A friend built up a 351 Windsor, and changing the push-rods meant the rockers had to change, thus the valve springs had to change, and their increased strength meant head work, replacing the pressed-in rocker arm studs for threaded. This added $1200 to his cost.
You can’t make significant performance changes in isolation.
Hi Chip,
Certainly. Whenever I do a cam swap, I always do it as a package – the cam, plus lifters plus new rocker arms and (if there is any question) pushrods, too.
I wonder, though, whether in this case the factory exhaust is (as is usual) compromised such that an aftermarket exhaust would be of benefit?
I am pretty sure changing out the 3.55 rear axle for a 3.73 or so would also make the car feel much stronger without touching the engine and with only a fuel economy penalty to pay.
Changing the rear-end ratio is something that can be easily done, and many of today’s owners probably wouldn’t think of doing it (they’d probably start with an ECU tune that could affect passing the state inspection). Only side-effects would be a inaccurate speedometer and increased fuel consumption.
You can’t do anything like this in a FWD car without spending major money — RWD wins again. 🙂
Even this 2.3L is likely leaving something on the table. go with higher octane fuel, change the programming, up the boost and that alone will probably kick it up a fair amount. That’s before doing any hardware changes. Even the old 2.3L could be built for a lot of power.
If I had time and facility I’d buy me a nice really light 1979 or 80 fox mustang or a XR4Ti and drop in the drivetrain from wrecked late model ecoboost mustang.