Had issues getting my protege’s ’72 Beetle to hold an idle; have a look at why!
. . .
Got a question about cars – or anything else? Click on the “ask Eric” link and send ’em in!
If you like what you’ve found here, please consider supporting EPautos.
We depend on you to keep the wheels turning!
Our donate button is here.
 If you prefer not to use PayPal, our mailing address is:
EPautos
721 Hummingbird Lane SE
Copper Hill, VA 24079
PS: EPautos stickers are free to those who send in $20 or more to support the site. Also, the eBook – free! – is available. Click here. Just enter you email in the box on the top of the main page and we’ll email you a copy instantly!
Eric;
What you have there is a late 1973 intake manifold. That hole is where a EGR valve was attached. If you’re looking for originality, leave the intake end castings bare aluminum and paint or coat the center section flat gray.
Hi Adam,
Other than EGR, is this manifold different from a ’72 non-EGR? I have the correct Solex 34 for the Beetle…
Eric;
Nope, no other difference. If you have a buddy that’s good with a welder, just weld up that hole. I would stay away from the new aftermarket manifolds. If the heat riser is clogged, I can show you how I clean them out, since you’re going to weld on it anyway. I can email you some pics.
Thanks, Adam!
A torch and some wire cleared the heat risers; patch welded… pics coming!
Does this car have a centrifugal advance only distributor? If so, you may need to do a mod to the carb. (fill the hole in the throttle plate)
Hi Adam,
It has vacuum advance; I’m using a Solex 34 Pict 3 carb… the manifold has a vacuum port on the main downtube… the EGR port has been welded closed. Thoughts?
Eric,
I took a second look at your pic of the engine, it has a combo mechanical/vacuum distributor. Make sure the mechanical part isn’t frozen and the vacuum part holds vacuum and actually makes the breaker plate move. If all is good, set at 8 btdc. Just cap off the vac port on the manifold.
The screw on the throttle arm is not the idle speed screw (the one that makes contact with the choke cam) With the choke in the fully open position, turn this screw out until it doesn’t make contact with the cam, then turn it back in till it touches, then another half turn.
The small screw on the side is the idle mixture and the large one is the idle speed. This one should be turned out around 1 1/2 to 2 turns. If you need to turn it in farther to get the idle speed down, then you need to plug the hole on the throttle blade (providing everything else is correct: valves adjusted, good compression, ignition system in proper order, including timing, no vacuum leaks) I use a brake shoe rivet to fill the hole. It’s kind of a pain, it’s a 2 man job, one to hold it in place while the other pounds it over, but once you’ve done it a few times, it’s easy. I can give you the details if you need to do this.
You may also need to re-jet due to ethanol. Stock it has a 127.5 main and a 55 idle. I like a 130 or 135 main with a 60 or 65 idle.