This column is inspired by a reader, a college kid who wants to learn to work on cars but doesn’t know where to begin. There are probably millions of kids – and adults – just like him. And growing. Probably because tinkering with machinery is not nearly as common as it used to be. That’s a function of a number of developments, including vehicles that require less in the way of everyday (or every month, anyhow) tinkering, a throw-it-away (as opposed to fix it and keep it going) “consumer” mentality and also, specialization. Have you noticed how helpless some very smart and well-educated people often are? The surgeon who can’t find the dipstick in his $60,000 luxury car? 
Anyhow, I gave the kid some advice – based on my own autodidactical automotive edumacation.
I told him, for openers, that you can learn a lot by doing. Ideally, by working under the guidance of someone who knows. This is how knowledge was once passed on – even in the professions. A person interested in becoming a lawyer, say, would apprentice with an established attorney and learn by doing, under the supervision of the attorney. Of course, the kid – like a lot f kids today – didn’t have a parent or big brother or friend who could be his mechanical mentor. Well, neither did I. But I was interested – and determined.
So I started to piddle – which is what I recommended the kid do.
Anyone, just about, can check the condition of (and replace if need be) a car’s air filter. You might need a screwdriver or a basic socket set ($25 or so) with a later-model car, to open the little box that contains the air filter element. But it’s no Great Mystery – most car owner’s manuals will have a section, with pictures, to walk you through the procedure – and it’s an excellent first step on your journey. Having opened the hood, you can also use the opportunity to find and identify such things as the dipsticks for the engine oil and transmission fluid (if it’s an automatic-equipped car), the overflow reservoir for the cooling system, the radiator and the hoses that connect to it.
Lights will begin to come on in your head as to the purpose of these things. 
A repair manual is the next step because before you do, you ought to read. This will lead to understanding – or at least, something better than guessing. There are two basic types of manuals: The factory shop manual (more expensive and technical) and the DIY mechanic type (more basic and less expensive). You want the DIY mechanic type for the sort of entry-level stuff you’ll be attempting. Haynes and Chilton are two of the big names. Almost any big auto parts store will carry them – or find them online at Amazon. Just punch in the make/model/year of the vehicle you’re planning to use as your first victim. The cost is about $25. Now read the thing. Then again. There are chapters for the various systems – brakes, for example – and individual sub-sections for things like doing an oil change.
Which is the next job for you to tackle.
But first, you’ll need to buy some basic tools. Set aside some cash for:
* A floor jack – a good floor jack. One rated for more capacity than you’ll be dealing with. It’s not only safer, it makes raising the car much easier. I use a 3 ton model, which is a ton more than any car I own. 
* A pair of sturdy jackstands. Never get under a car supported by just a jack. Jacks are hydraulic – and they can lose pressure. Jackstands are solid metal. Provided you’ve tucked them under a stable hard point (such as the car’s frame) and they’re standing on a hard, flat surface (cement driveway) the car is staying up in the air until you want it to come down.
* An oil filter wrench to fit the oil filter your car uses (ask at the auto parts store), a plastic drain pan to catch the oil and funnel to pour the new oil into the engine without making a mess.
* Basic metric or standard socket set (find out what kind you need for your car before you buy), screwdriver set (different sizes standard and Phillips) and build on this as you go. 
Buy individual tools as you need ’em – such as various types of pliers, wrenches and so on. Most can be bought individually or in sets, like this one. Try to buy the best quality stuff you can, because the cheap stuff breaks (so you’ll have to buy the same tools twice) and often is poorly made/fitted and will cause you problems as you try to work with them.
Now you’re ready. The next step is to take your time – and to learn patience. An experienced mechanic can do an oil change in 10 minutes; it will probably take you a lot longer, especially the first time. Budget the time. An afternoon or Saturday. Whatever you do, don’t put yourself in the position of having to get it done in 30 minutes (or two hours). Give yourself plenty of time to take each step in your own good time, after having read (and re-read) the procedure described in the manual and being sure (or as close to sure as you can be) before you start turning any wrenches. If you’re not sure, read the manual again. If that doesn’t do it, ask someone who knows. The guys at the auto parts store are usually pretty knowledgeable.
It’s going to go something like this:
Raise the car, support the car. Let the engine cool. Put a catch pan underneath the plug on the bottom of the oil pan. Carefully turn out the drain plug bolt. Use a socket/wrench that fits the head of the bolt exactly. Do not force it. Steady, even pressure. Once it’s loose, you can turn it out the rest of the way. Be careful! Engine oil may be hot. Wearing gloves is a good idea. If the bolt falls into the pan, don’t sweat it. You can fish it out later. No harm done. 
Let the oil drain. Then go after the filter. This part may be more challenging, depending on how much room you’ve got to work with. Be patient! It’s not impossible or even as hard as it looks. Remember: The Quick Lube joints do dozens every day. Trust me, it’s not rocket science. The challenge is overcoming your fear – and being patient.
Twist the new filter on – not too tight! (“Hand tight” is usually just right – but again, read the manual.) Reinstall the drain plug, being careful not to overtighten it. Lower the car. Add the right amount of the right oil (that info will be in the manual, or your owner’s manual – look under “capacities”).
Now start the engine and check for any leaks. If you see any, shut the engine off, find out why – and fix it.
Done.
You did it! 
And now that you’ve done it yourself, you’re on the path to doing more for yourself . How far you go is up to you. But the more you learn, the more confidence you’ll get – and even if you don’t learn how to do everything yourself, you’ll soon learn enough to feel less helpless when some minor thing happens. You’ll either be able to fix it yourself – or you’ll have enough of an idea about what’s probably wrong to talk about it confidently with your mechanic (and be less likely to get conned by a dishonest one).
And that’s hard to put a price on.
Throw it in the Woods?
Hi Eric- thanks for posting an informative and encouraging article! I’m hoping to get my boyfriend’s 1960 Ford F100 running. I know nothing about cars but am excited to learn! It was running two years ago but hasn’t moved since and in talking with friends, everyone says that it’s likely the carburetor is gunked up.
Looked for Hayden and Chilton manuals but they don’t seem to go back that far. Found a cd of the mechanic’s manual but I’m thinking that’s going to be too technical. Any other recommendations? I’m looking at different Ford forums, blogs, etc. but most everything seems to be for those with a working knowledge. Any recommendations for where a complete newbie should start? Thanks again!
Hi Kristie,
The good news is a ’60 pick-up is about as simple as a vehicle gets! The bad news is you will almost certainly need to disassemble and thoroughly clean/rebuild the carburetor to get it running again. Prolonged sitting is bad news for any carbureted vehicle, but especially today because of ethanol in the fuel – which does not store well and can turn a carb’s plastic/rubber internals into grey goo in just a few months of sitting.
Ok, first thing: Look for a book about the particular carb you’ve got (rather than the truck). For example, Carter, Motocraft/Autolite or Holley, etc. Try here: http://www.carburetormanuals.com/
Carbs tend to be fairly generic, with minor differences here and there.
A rebuild kit (try NAPA or any major parts place; bring your carb in – or bring the number cast on it – which help them look up the kit you need) will usually come with a schematic/blow-up of the carb, to aid disassembly and re-assembly. The rebuild kit will contain a new needle and seat, float, accelerator pump and gaskets. I recommend replacing the jets – which you’ll need to order separately – as these are probably occluded and they are very hard to clean (especially the pilot jet). They screw in and have numbers stamped on them. Get the same type/number from the parts place.
Remove the carburetor from the engine – a simple job. Probably four bolts that hold it to the intake, plus the throttle linkage and fuel line. Take care to note what goes where, so you know how to put it back together.
Then take the whole carb and place it in a container (like a food storage plastic tub) filled with carb/parts cleaner and let it soak for a few days to a week.
Next step is to take it apart and clean it some more; toothbrushes work well.
Ideally, use compressed air to blow out air passages and so on. But if you haven’t got a compressor, aerosol carb cleaner works pretty well (be sure to wear goggles as the stuff can spray back at you!)
Let everything dry thoroughly.
The next part is putting it all back together. Be very careful and patient. If you’re not sure about something, ask someone or read up on it. Be very careful when working with delicate small parts and also the castings. They are easy to damage by overtightening.
It should be easy enough to get the truck running, but some fine adjustment of the carb (idle mixture, float level, choke setting, etc.) will be needed to dial it in.
You can do it!
I’m here (and so are a bunch of other knowledgeable people) if you have any questions.
So it has been four years.
I have gained some knowledge and skills since 2012, but I’m nowhere near where I want to be. Life and circumstances keep getting in the way 😛
I still very much appreciate the article and the help from everyone.
Eric,
Thank you!
Your post inspired me so much that I opened the hood and found the carb (which I had to google because that’s how much of a novice I am). Wasn’t able to get it off as three of the four bolts are locked on but I found a circular stamp on the side that says 123 TK. Upon googling, it sounds like TKs are for small engines? Also found a spring that appeared to be broken (no idea what it was supposed to be attached to) and a broken piece of plastic that seems like it should be related to opening/closing the flap on top.
As TKs aren’t listed on the link that you provided, would that be the first issue to tackle – if it’s even an appropriate carb?
So for starters, I’m going to try and get the bolts off. For the throttle linkage and fuel line, I should disassemble them from the carb (so I really only get a piece of metal without any lines) right?
Again, really appreciate your help. If there’s a better place for my questions, please let me know. Thanks!
Hi Kristie,
You bet!
Soak the bolts that hold the carb onto the intake manifold with a penetrant such as PB Blaster. Let them sit overnight and then try again. The spring is likely the throttle return spring – it prevents the accelerator pedal (which connects to the carburetor via a cable that runs from the pedal through the firewall) from getting stuck open. The tension you feel on the pedal when depressing it? That’s the light pressure exerted by the return spring. You will definitely want to replace that spring! Do not run the truck without it!
Yes, you will want to disconnect (and mark!) all lines, such as the fuel line that runs to the carb from the fuel pump, as well as any vacuum lines. The entire carb should be removed as what they call an “assembly” (single piece).
Once you have the carb off the engine, cover the holes in the intake manifold with a rag or some such to keep dirt/debris from getting inside the engine while the carb’s being worked on.
Take the carb to a place where you can work on it – ideally, a clean flat bench where you can organize all the small parts.
But first, soak that thing! You can buy a gallon of parts cleaner (liquid, not aerosol cans) at any car parts place. Immerse the entire carburetor in the bath and let is soak for several days. During this time, you can scrub the exterior and accessible areas with a toothbrush (wear rubber disposable gloves, the fluid is nasty and will get really dirty!).
After a few days of this, you can begin (carefully!) disassembling the carburetor. There are usually a few small bolts holding the body (casting) together. At this point, you will want/need the schematic that shows how it all goes together – so you can take it apart properly.
The fuel well (this is where the gas is held inside the carb) is likely filled with goo and rust, the result of fuel degradation and chemical reactions with the fuel). It is very important to thoroughly clean this out. Also all the small orifices (air bleeds, etc.) and passages.
You will want to remove the old needle and seat (located in the fuel bowl, near the fuel line inlet) as well as the float (it maintains the fuel level in the bowl and will be made of brass or plastic or something similar) as well as the pilot and main jet(s) and accelerator pump. All these parts will be replaced with new parts from the kit.
The Big Thing is making sure the carb is completely clean before you re-assemble it with the new parts. If any air passages/bleeds are occluded, the carb will not operate properly – and the truck will not run right, if it runs at all!
Also – and for this you may need some help from someone – you will want to make sure the carburetor’s base has not been warped by someone overtightening the bolts that hold it to the intake (if it is warped, the carb may not seal fully and the result will be vacuum leaks and poor idle/performance) and also for excess play/wear of throttle shafts and other physical damage to the casting.
Eric,
You know the whole “it takes a village” – this can certainly be applied to my situation. From your encouraging post, googling & you-tubing galore, neighbors walking by, the Napa store, and words of advice from a mechanic named Pops, we’re getting somewhere!
I’ve cleaned out the carb (haven’t removed it for thorough cleaning/rebuilding yet; plan on doing that soon) replaced the battery, changed the oil and oil filter, replaced the fuel filter, and am in midst of changing out the fuel lines and am picking up a new fuel pump tonight! I know these are simple things to most reading, but this is so brand new to me, it’s a whole new world. It’s like traveling overseas and after a few days, you start to pick up a few new words and you know that you’re butchering the pronunciation, but it’s so much fun and you’re getting so much support that you can’t help but love it and want to learn more!
With that, I’ll be back with specific questions. Thanks again!!!
Kristie, the very first thing I’d do to that pickup is soak the entire engine compartment and as much of anything behind it as you can with a good degreaser and let it sit a day or two with another soaking or two. If you have a pressure washer, it makes things go a lot better and removes a great deal more than a hose.
Pressure washers are cheap now (you can rent one for a day too)so check into it if you don’t have one. It’s so much easier to do things when you can see the parts, the threads of one thing going into something else, the entire flange with bolt heads or nuts. You won’t spend nearly the time cleaning individual parts or just trying to see how something is attached this way.
Sounds like you’re doing it right though. That spring you mentioned that eric said to replace……do it. Springs are cheap. I had a spring break and only because I was an old hand did I managed to switch the engine off in time. If that spring breaks and you panic, you might be kissing that engine goodbye from an over-rev.
I’m excited for you. Keep on keepin on. P.S. None of us knew how to do it till we’d done it.
Eightsouthman- Thank you!
You’re so right. Everything is filthy and I left the hood open during a good rain the other day to start to clean it up but it didn’t do much. Never thought of a pressure washer – appreciate the tip!
As for the throttle return spring, I got one from Napa and put it in yesterday! I think I mentioned a plastic piece that was broken as well. Have since learned that it’s connected to the choke and consensus around here is that I don’t need to worry about it as it doesn’t get too cold here on the Mississippi Coast.
Care must be taken not to get water where it isn’t supposed to go under the hood. With a pressure washer this is much more difficult. The connectors and other components are not spec’d to keep out high pressure water. It could possibly get in somewhere and not get out. Shorting out or corroding components.
I agree with Brent on this, Kristie.
Water inside an engine is bad news. Leaving aside electrical trouble. And older engines like the one you are dealing with are often not very “tight”… be especially careful about spraying water in (or even near) the carburetor or the distributor.
Leaving aside aesthetics, unless the engine is absolutely caked in grease, it being externally dirty is not going to affect its function.
If you want to clean it, do it piecemeal and with a bucket of water and brushes and something not too caustic, like Simple Green.
I’ve always used simple green, an old tooth brush, a rag, and sometimes a gentle and careful spray from a garden hose.
Me too, Brent.
It’s kind of a Zen thing for me to work my around an engine, getting to know its nooks and crannies.
PS: The ZRX is “fully armed and operational” again… I broke many speed laws with it yesterday afternoon!
Be sure that’s ‘Simple Green,’ not ‘Soylent Green’!
You guys are awesome! Truly appreciate the encouragement and advice.
I already bring a glass of wine with me when I start on the truck (can check that one off the list). I’ve got some industrial strength Simple Green and it never crossed my mind to use it to clean it up. It’s mostly grease, dust, and dirt dobbers so that should work great.
As for the manual, on ebay I found a ford 1960 trucks shop manual and then I also found the MOTORS 62-74 truck & diesel engine manual that Eightsouthman mentioned. I know the engine isn’t original (it has a v8 390 bored to a 400?) but don’t know the year. So maybe the Ford shop manual is the way to go.
Thanks, again.
Kristie, what model is the truck? If it’s ’62 or newer the Motor Manual will cover everything in it including the 390. With a non-stock engine I’d buy both manuals if they weren’t too pricey. BTW, what was the price on the Motor Manual? Just curious.
As far as pressure washing, I didn’t mean to point it as just anything but it can remove crud in places you can’t get to any other way than disassembly.
I would avoid a steamer though. I had a power steering leak on a pickup and it got everything from front to rear covered in dirt so I used my cousin’s power steamer and began washing the front where the main leak had been. I was getting fairly close with it and when I pulled back, that bad boy had stripped the paint off the frame. I continued to use it but further away and it cleaned whee out of that truck without further paint removal.
The 390 is an FE engine and was used from 1961 to sometime in the early-mid 70s. Perhaps later in pickups.
If you want to know the engine’s year, or at least what year the major parts come from, hunt down a cast in part number on the block, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and other major castings. Ford part numbers start with the decade. C=1960s. D=1970s, E=1980s, and so on. The next number is the year. So you should see a lot of B9 and C0 parts on that truck that are original to it. there will be even older ones. It depends on when the part was last revised prior to the truck being made. The part numbers on the engine if it wasn’t pieced together should also fit in a 2-3 year range and give you an idea of what year it belongs to. The block casting is the best indicator. The rest is just eyeballing subtle changes from year to year.
BTW Kristie, this book I have is THE one you need. It’s the Truck and Diesel Repair Manual for 1962-1974……27th edition. If you can find one you won’t be able to put it down and when you do, you’ll find your self drawn back to it. It’s the real deal.
Hi Eightsouthman,
It’s a 1960 F100. Mostly original except for the engine that I mentioned. It’s in decent shape, especially considering it’s 50 years old.
The 62-74 Motors Manual (various editions) is anywhere from $10-25 on eBay.
I just ordered the 1960 Ford Truck shop manual. Woohoo!
Hi Brent-
It’s not letting me reply back to you directly, so I hope you see my thanks.
As the fuel pump that came in didn’t match up with the one I removed, I have a few days to wait for the replacement to arrive. So, it’ll be a simple green, clean it up weekend and I’ll look for any numbers/letters to get a better idea of the year of pieces/parts. Much appreciated!
Kristie, mine had a 292 V8, that I swapped out for a 223 6cylinder that I bought from a junkyard for $50 because it didn’t run. I pulled off the side covers and found 2 pushrods off their seats, set them back on, and it fired up.
That was 40 years ago. It may be harder to find an engine, but there are bound to be some out there.
My F100 had a hydraulic clutch and it cost me less than $4 for a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder. The old days seem like better days to me now.
Excellent, Kristie!
We are all pulling for you… and remember: If you get stuck, don’t get mad. Step away for a little while, if you need to. Do something else; have a beer. Think it over. Ask/read (a shop manual is your best buddy) and be patient and take your time.
I’ll second that, the beer and shop manual. In the right frame of mind it’s hard to put a good manual down. If it’s as good as the old Motor manuals(good luck, haven’t seen it yet and the news one suck big time)they’re just a treasure trove of info.
I’d look on the web and in used bookstores and the like and see if I could find one from that era. They’ll cover just about everything, no, everything on any model that’s in them. Their exploded diagrams are the best.
I just picked up an old one, a truck manual. It’s tired as I am. Autocar, Brockway, Caterpillar Diesel Engines, Chevrolet(including pickups), Chevrolet LUV, Corvair Trucks, Cummins Diesel Engines, Detroit Diesel Engines, Diamond Reo Trucks, Divco Trucks, Dodge, Ford, Ford Courier, Ford Diesel Engines, GMC Toro Flow Diesel Engines, GMC, International Diesel Engines, International, Jeep, Kenworth, Mack Diesel Engines, Mack Trucks, Perkins Diesel Engines, White Standard Trucks, White PDQ Trucks. At the bottom, Stock and Farm Tractor Engine Specifications all the way from Allis Chalmers to Waukesha.
This old book has saved many a butt. I didn’t loan it to just anybody. If there is a SHTF situation to ever happen, this thing would be worth more than gold. It has a section for American Motors and General Motors, Chrysler Corporation and Ford Motor Co. for special service tools.
Back in the good old days you could get complete or any part rebuild kit for power steering pumps. I recall rebuilding a ’69 Chevy pump by this thing. I’ve rebuilt Fuller transmissions such as RT 9-10’s with it. Any kind of brake you can imagine. It even shows wear patterns for differentials and how to rebuild and adjust them along with lockers. Sheesh, I’d forgotten how good it really is. 1962-1974 models, all inclusive. This old book as made a couple million miles too.
Eric,
I’m wid ya buddy on the beer part but a good merlot never hurt anyone! 🙂
David
Kristie,
As always google is your friend but YouTube can be a life saver! I have on more than one occasion when I was in doubt about how a particular procedure was performed referenced the good folks on that site. You’ll be surprised at how many good folks there are willing to help people out (the essence of the NAP in practice!). I recommend using YouTube heavily. If nothing else you can find a model of car very close to what you have and go from there. An example I can provide is a video where this person, I’ll call him MrGenius, provided a step by step video on how to replace the pressed in front wheel bearings on a modern automobile such as a 2004 Honda Civic. And all with simple hand tools! Here is the link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwAkpEqY69c
While the video was not specifically for the Honda, it is thorough enough to be applicable to any vehicle.
As always the regulars here are always willing to guide where we can.
David Ward
Memphis, Tennessee
Thanks, David. Absolutely agree! Spent Sunday morning watching videos about how to tell if your fuel pump is bad (which it is!).
I’m just incredibly grateful for all of the help.
Hi Kristie,
Given the truck’s age, I strongly suspect the steel fuel lines and the fuel tank itself are internally corroded. When this happens, bits flake off and get sucked through the lines, into the pump – and (sometimes) make it past the filter into the carb, where they clog small passages such as jets.
If the tank is still basically sound, you can clean/seal it with a three-stage kit that Eastwood Products sells (highly recommend). The lines may need to be replaced, though.
Hi Eric,
The gas tank has been replaced and I think the steel line may have been as well. When I saw how gunky the fuel pump was, I stuck a q-tip in the steel fuel line and it came out clean. I’m replacing all of the hoses as the ethanol (we know ethanol shouldn’t have been put it here, but it was) is deteriorating the lines. I dumped some seafoam in to clean up the current tank of gas and will look into sealing it with the Eastwood gas tank sealer (thanks for the recommendation).
When I changed the oil, 3 gallons came out; so we’re thinking the fuel pump was diverting gas into the oil? And there’s a pool of what I think is transmission fluid under the truck (has been there since before I started piddling). I was told that there’s a leak somewhere but last time a mechanic looked, he couldn’t find the source. I’m wondering if other lines/rubber gaskets/etc are deteriorated as well and maybe that’s where the leak is coming from.
Again, appreciate your help!
Three gallons of oil!
Yeah, that’s almost certainly indicative of a problem.
Most classic-era American V8s and sixxes take 4-6 quarts of oil.
So, you may have almost two gallons of something that ought not to be in the sump (oil pan).
I hope the engine hasn’t been run with that much excess in it…
Does the oil seem watery?
On the transmission: Is it an automatic or a manual? If it’s automatic, the fluid should be reddish and kind of thin/watery. If it’s a manual it should be a heavy (thick) oil….
When I removed the plug (thanks to your PB Blaster recommendation!!!) it just kept coming out… forever. Don’t know what else was in there, but knew it wasn’t good. It’s thin-ish; I don’t know if I’d call it watery but it’s certainly thinner than the oil I put in.
As for the transmission, it’s an automatic. The transmission fluid is red and thin. When I checked the dipstick for transmission fluid, it seemed to have some dark (maybe oil? maybe gunk?) on the bottom of the stick. Under the truck there’s a box/pan (I was looking for a diagram because I don’t know what it is- it’s toward the rear wheels, about 5″x12″x14″. It seems that the fluid is dripping from the edges of that box. Maybe I’ll take the simple green down there, too; clean it off and see where the new drips start.
Hi Kristie,
Minimally, I’d remove the transmission pan for an inspection. If it’s full of sludge (and – worse – obvious metal shavings) you likely have problems. Hopefully, may just need fresh fluid (and a new filter).
But, transmission fluid service is a little different vs. changing engine oil. There may – or may not be – a drain plug. If there is, you can drain the old fluid that way. If not, you will have to remove the pan (which is messy but not technically difficult). You’ll probably want to remove the pan regardless because it’s the only way to get at/replace the filter – a must do (in my opinion) with an older vehicle whose service history you don’t know.
The other thing is that by draining/dropping the pan, you will only remove about half to two-thirds of the total fluid volume. Much will still be inside the torque converter (the donut-looking thing at the very front of the transmission) and the cooler/lines.
What I’d do – assuming no major sludge/metal shavings in the pan – is drain what you can, install a new filter, then top off the transmission with fresh fluid (critical to get this right; know the capacity – and refill accordingly; a good way to know appx. how much to put in – assuming the level was correct before you started – is to measure (use quart jars or a gallon milk container, etc.) what came out and refill with that amount of fresh fluid) and run the car for about 10 minutes to circulate the fluid; then repeat the drain/refill procedure. Be sure you do not run the engine with low fluid in the transmission!
Changing fluid/filter is a dirty/messy job, but it’s very easy to do – and doesn’t cost much, either. Fluid and filters are inexpensive; rebuilt transmissions aren’t.
PS: Be sure yo use the correct ATF for your application. There are several different types. Older Fords usually use Mercron… but (again) make absolutely sure before you pour!
PS: PS: Per Eight’s suggestion, I’d install a drain plug (magnetic) if your pan doesn’t have one. It’ll make the job a lot easier (less messy) next time!
My bet is the leak is more like a seep… caused by an old/tired gasket (pan) or (another possibility) the front or rear seal.
Neither are big deals… and so long as it’s just a little seep, I would not not lose any sleep!
ATF is red and thin so that’s ok.
Smell what you drained from engine. If still has oil color and smells like gasoline that’s gasoline being pumped into the oil through the broken diaphragm in the fuel pump. Coolant would have resulted in a milky colored oil. It wouldn’t even look like oil any more in severe case.
Kristie, I don’t mean to overload you here but I’d do as eric says but consider installing a drain plug in the pan so not to have to drop the pan(hopefully)again. I’d also use a magnetic drain plug so I could tell if steel shavings are coming off or at what rate at least. Before you start it and run the transmission after changing the oil and filter and pan gasket, I’d clean the holy whee out of that transmission, especially in the front so if the front seal should be the culprit, you won’t waste the fluid and time draining and refilling again since you’ll need to pull the transmission.
I’m not trying to put you off since removing a transmission is a straight-forward job with a transmission jack which you can probably find to borrow. If it is the front seal leaking, which isn’t out of the question by any means, emptying and washing out the torque converter is the thing to do at that time. Ford was good later on about having a drain plug on their converters although I doubt it that far back. Then again, you probably don’t know what age the transmission is or what model it is. It may be the same one that came out with that 390 which would be a good thing. You can identify the transmission as to type by doing a web search for the pan. Parts stores often have a plastic page or simply paper that shows all the pans for each type of transmission by manufacturer. Now is a good time to find a local shop you can ask a question or two and hopefully get loads of info. Good luck.
Friends-
Big news – drove the truck around the block yesterday!!!! Woohoo!
Replaced the fuel pump and with the handy clear in-line fuel filter saw a bunch of junk (3 layers) in the filter. Thinking it was water on the bottom, a thin oily/bubbly layer (maybe the seafoam additive?) then fuel on top. Ended up draining about three gallons of fuel until it was clear.
Found that when I tuned the idle a little higher and manually closed the choke on the carb, it started! Did a victory lap around the block where it stalled at the stop signs, looked at the fuel filter and it was full of gunk. Lesson learned: bad ethanol is no good for truck or me (ended up sick after inhaling too much gas). So, I’ll drain the rest of the fuel, get a new filter, and now I’m on the hunt for a replacement carb. That little plastic piece that I mentioned in the first post that opens/closes the choke doesn’t seem to be available anywhere. And the truck just doesn’t want to start unless the choke’s shut completely.
I’m going to start with ebay and the Ford Truck forum that forum that Ed mentioned earlier to look for a 2 barrel carb that’ll fit a 70’s (still need to clean to get the year) 390.
Haven’t tackled the transmission fluid yet, but that is on the list!
Just wanted to share this exciting news – thanks for all your help to make it happen!
Hi Kristie,
Eggscellent!
Now, fyi – the choke plate is supposed to close when the engine’s cold. Once the engine’s warm, the choke should open (automatically, unless you have a manual choke).
If it won’t idle unless the choke’s on, you’ve got any of several problems:
Vacuum leak, incorrect float level, problem with the needle and seat, clogged air bleeds/jet.
It’s a process of elimination.
If you’re going to replace the carb, be sure you get one designed to work on the intake manifold you have and that the carb is appropriately sized (airflow/CFM) for the application. You will likely need to “jet” the carb, too – unless it’s a correct/exact factory replacements.
I strongly recommend completely draining the fuel tank and then treating it with a cleaner/sealer such as Eastwood’s kit.
For the little plastic linkage piece. Check rebuild kits for that carb or choke kits for it. It is unlikely to be sold separately but it may be part of rebuild kit for either the carb or the choke.
Also in looking at kits I found this:
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=CUD3934
“aerosol carb cleaner works pretty well (be sure to wear goggles as the stuff can spray back at you!)” Murphy’s law says it will always come back right into your eye. On the good side, you’ll completely forget about that bit of dirt that was in it and bugging you.
Kristie, if you have transmission fluid in the oil, it might be and probably is the vacuum modulator. Automatic transmission fluid will flow into the oil if the vacuum modulator is shot.
Also, check the starter to make sure it is not froze and won’t spin.
A 1965 Ford pickup that I once drove and burned out the clutch plate, I was an inexperienced driver at 15 years old, had a frozen starter after the pickup had sat for a few years.
Kroil, recommended.
Hey, Kristie. I had a ’60 F100 years ago. Here’s a forum. Just tell them you’re new to this stuff and ask questions. There are some well informed truck owners there.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum268/
Thanks, Ed! That’s a wealth of information. Much appreciated.
Boy, does that bring back memories. Friends and I got in over our heads back then, usually working on the parents’ cars. They weren’t alway thrilled.
I only have two points:
First, regarding lawyers. No, no jokes. Most states don’t allow reading law. They will only accept a certified degree in order to take the bar exam.
Second: regarding auto parts people. As one who spent 20+ years in the parts business, from delivery driver to store manager, mid-sixties-mid-eighties, I find most of the new people know less about cars than the folks you wrote the article for. If they can’t find something on the computer, they are lost.
My most recent foray in to this world was looking for parts and accessories for my 2012 car. They couldn’t find it on the computer, so they told me is wasn’t available. Item one was a K&N air filter. He said they didn’t make it, or so his computer said.
Funny thing is they stock K&N. The K&N web site clearly shows it as available, but that didn’t impress him. As much as I’d rather buy locally, it looks like I will be ordering it online. (sigh)
I guess workethic is truly gone in most cases, thankfully not all.
Rick,
I’d stay away from K&N filters for any vehicle. I installed one on my 2004 Honda Civic. I cleaned it more often than the recommended schedule from K&N every 2k miles and recharged it. No matter the engine still got ruined. To add insult to injury, I also bought a pair for my Kawasaki Vulcan VN750. Mind you some people have gotten more than a 100k out of the engines on that model bike. Not me. Again as per K&N’s schedule I did more than due diligence. Shorten the cycle time between cleaning and recharging. Again a ruined engine. My VN750 now is leaking so badly from cylinder blow by that no one and I mean absolutely NO ONE will buy the bike. Not even for parting the bike out. I’ve listed it for 600 bucks and the only person I had reply stated he would rebuild it if I’d show him how. LOL. Hell I can’t even afford the parts for a rebuild of this magnitude.
My opinion of K&N? Okay if you are racing engines. Great flow. But as we all know racing engines get rebuilt every two or three daily runs. Some do it after every daily run. BUT they are not for routine use.
I’d like to sue their ass for my destroyed engines. Their products should come with a disclaimer that their filters are not for regular duty.
David Ward
Memphis, Tennessee
“Come in my young cousins, and be part of the family.” (Movie Quote)
Watch Fahrenheit 451 from 1966, only a few years after America’s Great Degradation (of currency and personaly wealth and autonomy)
http://www.1channel.ch/watch-4002-Fahrenheit-451
Do not be alarmed. Compare this to Avatar, and be amazed at the evident degradation of filmaking.
I’ve been doing only the very basics on vehicles for decades, including valve adjustments on BMW motorcycle airhead valves, oil and filter changes, air filters, spark plugs, etc.
As you said, a service or shop manual and some reading should be a prerequisite for working on any car or motorcycle, and I buy one for every vehicle I have ever owned.
On a side note, this week my electric water heater quit working, and I ended up spending part of today replacing the heating element and the T&P Valve on it. Now it works like a champ again and I saved the couple of hundred dollars plumbers in our area would have charged me to do it for me.
For me it’s the same with working on the simpler parts of vehicles. I figure if I screw it up, I can always revert to having the expert fix it anyway. So I have little to lose by trying it myself first, and much experience and money savings to potentially gain.
I try to learn as much as I can about everything I can – and so do as much as I can for myself. It’s very liberating – and enjoyable. My father-in-law knows plumbing and I’ve been trying to glom as much from him as possible (including, incidentally, that bit about replacing the element in the water heater – saving hundreds of dollars vs. buying a new heater and having a plumber come do it for you).
It’s startling how many smart people are so helpless outside their narrow specialty.
Eric,
First step in any water heater issue is flushing the sediment from the tank.
All modern water tanks are glass lined. This saves the tank from corrosion.
However, as all water heaters suffer from this ailment it builds up. Said sediment gets stirred up and clogs filters of differing types. From the strainers on your washing machine to the flow restrictors in the shower or kitchen faucets. So a periodic flush is necessary like the radiator in a car.
As for heating elements? can you replace a car thermostat? That is about as extensive as it gets. Actually less. Turn off the breaker for the water heater. Drain the tank. (All water heater tanks have a shut off valve on the cold water intake.) Open the covers for the elements. Remove the elements. Replace the elements. Fill the Tank, that means open the shut off valve for the tank inlet. Once the tank is filled turn on the breaker. It is all good that that point.
To many people overthink shit like this. Yes, I use to do plumbing work. Also, I am a Master Electrician.
David Ward
David Ward
I meant to say you must open a tap somewhere in the house to remove the air in the system. My bad.
David Ward
Memphis, Tennessee
There’s more benefit to learning basic auto maintenance than saving a few bucks from the larcenists with a ASE-certification. The lessons on problem-solving and sticktuitiveness that come with learning to keep and old beast roadworthy pay off in other aspects of life. I learned same with my now 78 y.o. Dad, helping him keep our family ’68 Chevy Bel Air wagon and his ’66 Dodge Coronet (with the poly-head 318 that needed the tappets adjusted every six months and the Stromberg two-barrel that could be ‘rebuilt’ in a hour). I’ve passed it on to my boys. The older one already keeps his ‘fleet’ of three oldies (the ’99 Saturn that I gave him, the ’96 Cherokee that his father-in-law gave to his wife, and her ’04 Kia) running. The younger son is a student at BYU but he still does as much work on his ’03 Jetta (when the apartment managers aren’t hassling him) as possible. For him, it helped to be on good terms with a local that had a garage as doing a brake job in Provo, UT in the dead of winter is NOT an outdoor activity!
I won’t say that “Gubmint” mandated features and CAFE requirements are a ‘conspiracy’ to eliminate the shade tree mechanic, but that’s the trend. So find a 60’s vintage Plymouth Valiant, a 50’s Dodge power wagon with the flathead six, a pre-1976 VW Bettle, or any six-banger economy car (Nova, Falcon, Maverick, Dart, Valiant, or Rambler) made between 1960 and 1974. Parts can still be had, and the beasts aren’t too hard to figure out, and they’re modern enough to be road-worthy.
Great article Eric. I’d only add that a person should start work on a car that was designed to be repaired by a home mechanic. Anything built before 1980 would be a good choice in my opinion. Working on the Starship Enterprise as a first effort can be daunting.
Thanks, Scott – and, agreed!
Those of us who grew up before cars became the Starship Enterprise probably had a leg up – not just because cars were easier to work on, but also because it was more common for people to work on cars. The need to do annual adjustments, regular tuneups, etc., got more people under the hood. New cars are more maintenance-free… for awhile. But when something eventually does go wrong, it’s more typical for people to take it to the shop than to raise the hood themselves.
Great article, Eric. People shouldn’t be afraid of their cars. They aren’t that hard to work on, and you can easily save thousands of dollars annually by picking up a wrench.
I have to say that *fear* is the biggest response I get when I tell people that I’m putting a 4BD1T Isuzu turbodiesel into my 1999 Suburban. I get “you must be brave,” and “why the heck would you want to do that?”
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?18880-4BD1T-Into-1999-Suburban
First, it’s fun! I really enjoy this stuff–especially when it’s an extra vehicle and I can take my time (already a year into this project–yikes!).
Second, it’s about personal choice. I can’t buy a 4×4 family hauler that gets 25+ mpg, so I’m building my own. This vehicle will be one-of-a-kind, and really nice for family trips.
Third, it’s about fuel economy. Some people have put the same engine into a full-size Chevy pickup and got 32 mpg highway. The Suburban’s a big heavier, though, so I may have to add a larger turbo, an intercooler, and turn up the power screw.
“putting a 4BD1T Isuzu turbodiesel into my 1999 Suburban” – that sure seems like a great idea.
In my area there are quite a few older Ford trucks with 460 motors in them available for cheap. I imagine a small diesel would be great in one, if there’s one that fits without too much trouble.
There are people putting smaller diesels, including the Isuzu 4BD, Cummins 4BT and many other diesels into all kinds of trucks.
I recommend checking the build threads at 4BTSwaps that are found here:
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?7-Buildup-Showcase-Threads-All-Engines-All-Vehicles
Part of my theory was also to take advantage of how people are *dumping* the larger vehicles to score a good deal. My rust-free Suburban was only ~$5k. Since then, I’ve seen the prices continue to drop.
If I started over, I’d look for a full-sized 4-door pickup with a manual transmission. I’m converting the Suburban to a 5-speed in this build. I think that the low-rpm torque is a bit much for non-diesel automatic transmissions–and the standalone shift controllers cost real $$$.
I’d recommend a New Venture Gear 4500. It’s the transmission GM and Dodge used behind their diesels in the 90’s. It’s a heavy duty 3 speed with an underdrive and an overdrive. You won’t need the underdrive unless you tow and if you have a high speed rear like a lighter vehicle might have. It would be easy to use with that same (I forget the name)transfer case they both used also. I’ve always wanted to set one up, and it’s probably not possible, but to make it like a two speed BrownLipe gearbox so you could split each gear. That gear splitting with a diesel is going to let you get the best fuel mileage at whatever speed. It’s the reason I like the Eaton Fuller 18 speed for big trucks. There is only 17% difference in the top 8 gears.
Being an old trucker I’m fine with shifting two sticks.
Mark, that’s a slammin’ idea for a swap-in engine. That forum is very interesting. I just love that kind of thing, and hope to get back into wrenchin when I heal up a little more.
Oil changes are a good way to get your feet wet, but your savings won’t justify the tools you’ll need to buy. Learn to do brake jobs. Brakes are, by far, the biggest profit item in a repair shop. Don’t worry about “cutting” the rotors. Just install the new pads. If the brakes pulse after the new pads are installed, buy a new set of rotors. You’ll still be way ahead of the repair shop game. There’s lots of other stuff to learn, but brakes will save you real money.
I agree with you with the exception of the cutting the rotors/drums. Might as well do it, even if just to save the headache of the comeback. Not even to mention the longevity of the pads/shoes if you marry them to a flat surface. Also the more precise stopping because of the perfect mesh.
I’ve heard that with some late model vehicles, the material is so thin that turning them is often not an option… is that true?
That agrees with my experience. I haven’t turned any in awhile. Even when they are thick enough, turning warped ones simply relieves the metal and they warp further on the next heat cycle.
eric, that’s true for PT cruisers. The thin rotors save weight for meeting CAFE standards, and the factory rotors are ruined quickly if you don’t keep up with pad changes.
I bought Raybestos “composite” rotors for my ’02 PT LE, and Centric pads. Total cost for all 4 wheels was less than $300.
Hi Gordon,
Not at first – but over time, you’ll make it back. Dealers routinely charge $40 or more to change oil. The “quick lube” places charge less – but beware the cheap oil filters (and maybe oil) and service, too. You definitely get what you pay for.
On brakes: Agree, but with some caveats. It’s important to make sure the rotors aren’t gouged or warped or unevenly worn; if you don’t and just slap on a new set of pads, the car may pull (possibly sharply) to the left or right when pedal pressure is applied; you could get pedal pulsation/feedback; also, the new pads may wear much faster – etc. Calipers need to be checked for proper operation, no sticking pistons, leaky seals – etc. – and repaired as needed.
Tools – unlike cars – are a good investment. You’ll get your money back and then some over a lifetime. Plus, if you buy good quality tools and take good care of them, they will always have value in themselves and can be sold or passed down to a deserving protege.
Speaking of tools, getting and OBD2 scanner can pay for itself on the first use. I bought a cheap one for ~$20 on eBay a few years ago, and it works fine. You just have to look the codes up once you pull them.
I was driving past a dealer today who said they’d do diagnostics for “only” $40. That’s a lot to pay for simply pulling codes.
One more thing on OBD2 scanners: your local auto parts places will normally loan you the scanning tool for free to take it out to the lot and plug it in, hoping that they can sell you the parts.
Only $40 is cheap for a shop though. Usually they charge one hour check out. So like $100+. I’ve had an OBDII tool for a decade now. He with OBDII scanner has many friends, so I’ve found.
Several very good points above. I started with a Haynes manual for my first car. A friend advised me to use it for bedtime reading which I did. Talk of journals, big ends etc was Double Dutch to me at the time as were terms like thermosyphon, however, that last one in the section on cooling became clearer as the whole cooling system made some sort of sense and that is what I started working on. I think I replaced the thermostat early on and as Eric says, you learn greatly by doing. Brent also makes the point that a car is several systems sometimes interacting and sometimes not, so having cracked cooling, ignition followed and a hunger to learn will bring you into contact with like minded more experienced people who can explain in detail the finer points such as mutual induction in coils and the physics of carburation. It’s a natural progression to want to discover the secrets of transmissions or braking systems or whatever after that. I used to be amazed at the stamp marks on components as I pulled apart my first engine. It was as if I was boldly going where no man…………. but of course it was only a voyage of discovery for me: the designers/builders had been there long ago. Don’t be afraid is the ideal attitude.
My experience is similar. Continued reading for me included books on fuel injection, turbochargers, superchargers, and chassis/handling.
For me, simply fixing things isn’t enough. I feel the need to modify. I don’t feel that a car is truly *mine* until I’ve changed it, somehow.
I got to learn the basics of car repair and maintenance through having much smaller hands and arms than my dad in a family with a Japanese car. Seemed like all through High School, one Saturday a month I was pulled out to the garage to reach a nut while hearing him swear his mantra that “this damned thing has got to be revenge for Hiroshima”.
I think the biggest thing is not being afraid. I second the idea of getting an old beater – something where it doesn’t matter if you totally mess up and take it out of commission for a couple weeks.
I think for one small project to learn on, with a modern car, IMO it’s hard to beat disc brakes. In a lot of cases I’ve been able to buy brand new rotors as well and come in under the cost of just labor, and after the first time doing it (and taking 4-5 times longer than it should) I couldn’t believe nobody else does it for themselves.
Thanks for the article, Eric – I need to repack the bearings on my trailer, and now I feel inspired to do it!
Hi Sic,
yup – you bet!
I’m just now within sight of finishing a motorcycle project – ’75 Kawasaki S1C resto. Just a few more odds and ends to attend to… been working on it for about a year now…
Changing discs brake pads and rotors is not too difficult in my opinion. It helps to have a C-clamp to compress the brake hydraulics to make room for the new brake pads. Each rotor was only held together by a single screw on the VW Golf.
It just took me some patience and to only work on one brake at a time.
The old drum brakes are a pain in the neck without the proper tools.
One word of caution with the brake pads: The VW rear brake pads required a special tool to remove the brakes (~$10-15).
I’ve checked out that brake tool as a loaner when I did the rear pads on my VW Jetta TDI. The major parts places will let you “buy” their loaner tools, and you get paid back in full when you return them. Or, you can always choose to keep them–as you’ve already paid for them. I’ve done that once or twice, if I liked the tool and the price was OK.
On oil change. Be sure and check that the rubber gasket on the filter has been removed with the old filter. Then place a film of clean oil on the new filter rubber gasket before installing it.
I was just about to point that out myself, Charlie. Once one has the experience of starting a car with a double oil filter gasket, generally the incident is not repeated. That said, it IS possible for a double gasket to not leak for a while, years ago I changed the oil on my girlfriend’s car after she had had it at a lube joint, there was a gasket on the filter, and another one hanging from the block…that thing could have broken loose at any time-not good.
Very easy to keep from happening though, take the extra 30 seconds to double and even triple check the filter gasket.
Another simple thing I always do when I change oil is look at the tires for uneven wear. Tires should wear pretty evenly across the tread, if they are not it usually either means they are not inflated properly or there is a suspension/alignment issue. You can look up tire wear patterns and what they mean online. A novice likely isn’t going to want to get into alignment problems, but if you detect an issue early, you can save the cost of new tires….not to mention your friendly, and always honest, mechanic talking you into an alignment because you’ve been running around with your driver’s front tire at 15 psi…
I installed tires for several years when I was a kid, and have spent over a decade racking up around 1000 miles a week as a salesman. I’ve ran a half a dozen cars up over 200k and I have yet to own a car that needed an alignment, ever. Not that it doesn’t happen, just it somehow has not happened to me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgYIVM_Qm8g&feature=player_detailpage
Wilhelm Reich. Unpersoned and murdered by the FDA. Don’t be afraid.
Great starting point. Another good avenue is to check out your local Community College. Chances are they have an auto tech program. In North Carolina the introductory course (AUT110) you end up with a State Vehicle Inspector Certification BUT, the best part is you’ll get an awesome introduction to auto repair for a couple hundred bucks…an investment that should save you thousands over the years. I’ve ended up taking several engine classes, suspension/brakes, electronics, manual transmissions and others. I now do most of the work on my race car that I couldn’t afford to pay someone to do…not to mention 90% of the stuff on my own vehicles.
Another good source of info can be YOUTUBE. There are some great videos such as those uploaded by 1AAuto that are real gems for getting good DIY advice. Of course, they are also selling their parts, but the prices are reasonable and the quality is as good as OEM.
P.M.Lawrence wrote, “if it isn’t moving and it should, use WD-40, and if it’s moving and it shouldn’t, use duct tape”
I must not have been paying attention when the old timers said that one, I like it. Goes right along with, “Duct tape and bailing wire.”
Or, was that, “Black tape and bailing wire.”?
I suppose it depends upon the situation?
P.M.Lawrence wrote, “I now know enough to be aware of the many things I still don’t know.”
I like that too. I don’t think it can be learned, like patience, it’s something gained by experience and time.
I only know some things. Others, they don’t know anything… Heh, or they know everything and we call them Clovers.
Duct tape is a valuable “tool”! I always keep a couple of rolls handy. Electrical tape, too. Out in the Boonies, sometimes, you have to work with what you’ve got until you can get something better…..
Exactly.
Wouldn’t you know it, today’s Lew Rockwell site just put up an article, WD-40, Vice Grips, and Duct Tape, linking to this.
Did you click on the link in the WD-40 article that takes you to the list of 2,000 things you can use WD-40 for?
Also thought it was interesting, what WD-40 stands for. (It would be a good Jeopardy answer.)
I didn’t go any further than the article the Lew Rockwell excerpt page linked to.
I thought my father might be joking when he first told me that a tin of valve grinding paste would have a lid on each end. I now know enough to be aware of the many things I still don’t know.
By the way, I don’t see any mention of that old stalwart, “if it isn’t moving and it should, use WD-40, and if it’s moving and it shouldn’t, use duct tape” (just kidding).
Justin wrote, “The official VW repair manual for a diesel beetle alternator replacement is: “begin by removing both front fenders…””
Seriously? Jeez. I was leaning towards the VW, as opposed to a 4×4 GM vehicle, just to get away from such. I’m glad it’s only in the manual and not the real situation.
On my 4×4 one has to disconnect, lower, and support the transmission, among other things, simply to remove the starter.
The clearance is so tiny, and I soooo wanted to sawsall my way through.
I guess what you’re saying is, there is value in books like the, How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive 19 Ed: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot,… as opposed to Only having plain Jane manuals.
Also, my comment above about the Fast Orange, it suddenly occurred to me how old-school that comment was, don’t most(?) mechanics these days use blue surgical gloves while making repairs?
I can’t stand wearing gloves while working like that, especially when it’s hot and humid.
One other also, relying on the internet is ok, kind of, but what would a Person do if they didn’t have internet access, say, from a local disruption, or perhaps an all out national disruption? Or one has to do a repair where the internet isn’t available,… situations like that.
And, where do you scribble notes on a video for use when you’re in the garage a year from when you first downloaded the video?
Plus, turning off the internet and spending time in a garage with a machine and a manual is,… well, kind of fun. For some. Sometimes. YMMV.
@clark: ” I soooo wanted to sawsall my way through” I feel your pain. I used to be the proud owner of an ’88 Toyota 4×4 PU (3.0L, EFI, 5 spd.). At about 120K the starter failed. Being “just the starter” and having replaced them several times before on different vehicles, I never even bothered with the manual. Once I got the starter unwired and unbolted, I turned the bloody thing every way you can imagine trying to get it out. No dice. Between the bell housing, steering components and body there was no space to take it out. After about an hour of fussing with it, I went inside to take a break. I told my wife I’d have to use my air grinder to cut a hole in the fender well to get the starter out. I jacked the truck up, pulled the right front wheel and…there was this small half round plate held in with a sheet metal bolt in the fender well. I pulled the bolt, took off the plate and the starter came right out. When I checked the manual, it started out by saying “Raise front end of vehicle. Support with jack stands. Remove passenger side front wheel…..”
Boothe, you wrote that perfectly.
I wish I would’ve bought a Toyota back then, but they weren’t available in my area much, when they were, they were expensive … because they built a good truck,
Trap door, so cool.
ANY vehicle from Europe is going to be hard to work on and parts are gonna be expensive.
If you want a fairly reliable, easy to work on 4×4, just get mid 80s to early 90s GM or Ford, Blazer, bronco,F-150 whatever.
the old K-5 Blazers, made up thru 1992 are solid, and easy to repair. the Ford EFI from 88-96 is very easy to work on once you understand it.
this book is the best guide to Ford EFI.
http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Injection-Electronic-Engine-Control/dp/0837603021/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1331820173&sr=1-1
I transplanted a 91 Mustang engine into my 73 Bronco, and using an adapter, swapped in a NV 3550 5 speed trans, used in Wranglers, Dakotas and Rams, into the Bronc also.
The other poster has good advice, if you want to learn, dont bother with the schools, find a small shop and get a job there.
or you can do what people ask me to do, all my friends know Im a pretty good mechanic & handyman and several have asked me to supervise them while THEY swap the brake pads, or repair a leaking pipe in their house. They dont want ME to do it, they pay me to TEACH them how to do it.
Justin wrote, “ANY vehicle from Europe is going to be hard to work on”
Well, I wouldn’t say that. After looking into the older VW’s I think they look like they will be a breeze to work on compared to most cars, foreign or domestic.
As far as parts being expensive,… every part is likely going to be expensive for ALL cars:
“Read this post day after day. It will prepare your mind for what is coming and cause you to start preparing for what is sure to be very serious price inflation, most likely double digit inflation.”
http://www.economicpolicyjournal.com/2012/03/how-quickly-can-price-inflation-explode.html
Note: When I wrote VW above, I meant an older VW. So far as I can tell, parts prices are about the same as any other and the supply is here already.
“How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive 19 Ed: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot,”
The first edition was for sale in the Whole Earth Catalog in 1970, to show how far that book goes back in the DIY world.
It was the only book you needed to keep a bug or Microbus/Kombi running back then. Glad to see it’s still available. Amazon has used copies.
The best repair manual nowdays is the internet.
The official VW repair manual for a diesel beetle alternator replacement is: “begin by removing both front fenders…”
I kid you not.
Youtube showed me how to do it by simply unbolting the A/C compressor and moving it aside.
Cost me $140 to have the alt repaired, local VW stealership gets $1450 for the same job.
I agree that the Web is a great tool! I still think that DIY and shop manuals are indespensible, too. Lately, I’ve been using online versions of manuals like AllDataDIY and Mitchell1. I keep a computer in my shop, and consult the Web often when I’m pulling things apart.
Another important “tool” is, Fast Orange hand cleaner.
I haven’t found anything better, and if I can help it, I don’t start a job without some for cleaning up afterwards.
Also, another place besides Craigslist where you might find quality tools:
http://www.shopgoodwill.com/
I’ve found a lot of information on the net. That’s how we got a copy of the owners manual for my daughter’s car. I’ve also found the owner’s/enthusiast sites very helpful.
You forgot to mention that clovers should probably ease into this by working on a lawnmower first because of their inherent stupidity.
Or perhaps clovers(because of their perceived superior intelligence) should instead start off with a brake job making sure to use only 2 hydraulic jacks to lift the car with those jack points centrally located for optimum balance purposes.
Ah, but Clovers don’t work on things. They don’t do anything, usually. They’re talkers and feelers. They get others to do things for them. Often, by forcing them to do it (via Uncle).
What, precisely, is the etymology of “clover?” I get the concept, but it could have been a word such as “plover” or “slover.” Is it rooted in a contraction of “cop lover?”
Clover is the user name of our local representative.
I’m afraid I still don’t follow. (Does that make me a clover? I sure hope not.)
Hi Bogey,
See here:
http://ericpetersautos.com/2012/01/08/road-clovers/
That’s a definition, not an etymology. I understand the concept: from whence did the word come? You could have said “Ploverus Americanus,” or “Sloverus Americanus.” Why “Clover?” Why is that term, in particular, used to describe that type of person?
There was a troll here – its name was Clover. If you scroll through the posts, you’ll encounter him. I see him as an archetype – and a self-named one at that!
For example: “This creature sleeps at night, wakes up in the day time, and is an herbivore. I call it a ‘slicer,’ because . . .” Why?
We have a user that has been coming here for a very long time and acts like a fool. His user name just so happened to be clover. We thought the term was appropriate to describe his mentality and the mind of the many others like him.
Ah, I can dig it. It’s a user, as was indicated. Dom’s response was a bit cryptic, though.
“Dom’s response was a bit cryptic, though.” No doubt, I confuse myself a lot too. My bad! I am all over the place throughout the day. 50 miles each way to work, gym at lunch, clover cam the whole time during commute, and all sorts of other shit going on. Took the night off from training this evening and now just got home and drinking a beer.
Turd, Clovers don’t work on things because they’re more important than you and they have better things to do. Clovers, you see, have a gift; they’re smarter and better able to direct the efforts of lesser humans. It would be an offense against nature for Clover to repair a car.
And when clovers can’t afford (or don’t think they should have to pay) to have someone do something for them they have the government force others to do it or pay for it.
Jackstands? That’s what large tree limbs and come-alongs are for. Heh. Just kidding,… kind of.
All I can add is, I wish every car had a manual like this one:
How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive 19 Ed: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot
This is the kind of book I would have liked to have had when I started learning about cars.
Thanks again for recommending it, eric.
You bet!
“The Manual” was one of my first. It helped me with the three old VW Beetles I used to own. They’re long gone,but I still have The Manual in the garage someplace!
I used it to learn how to change the oil in my Bugs.
Wow Eric! Thanks for this! 😀 was my face when I read the first line.
Changing the air filter /was/ the first thing I learned how to do. I was pretty happy when I did that, years ago. I bought a “how to repair your car” book recently. Though before I buy specific books I’m still trying to get rid of this Accord. Plus, it didn’t have a manual with it when we bought it. (Yes, it’s avalible online but it’s not the same imo).
My dad still plans to teach me how to change the oil once it stays this warm. It’ll be better with him there, though I could probably figure it out (again, hopfully I won’t be learning with this Accord). I’m also still trying to get an apprenticeship as a mechanic or even at a jiffy lube. These are all great skills to have in life.
I’m favoriting this article. Thanks for it! Thanks for the site too. Everyone here has been so helpful to me over the past 2 or so years I’ve been here. It’s had quite an influence on me.
Glad I read that article, whatever article it was, in whatever magazine it was in, back in april of 2010, and decided to join this awesome site. One of the best things to happen to me! Thank you EPautos!
If you want to learn to work on cars I would suggest working at a successful mom and pop shop as a mechanic’s helper. Do some research and find a good shop. Then find a good lead tech, the A man. Then let him know you want to learn to wrench. I was lucky enough that the first shop I worked at just so happened to have (even to this day) the best mechanic I’ve ever met. I call him Dr. John. Still do! Holly smokes, that was 17 years ago. I’m getting old. Oh yeah, I say mom and pop because at the dealerships most the issues that come in there are diagnosed/known just by looking at the ticket. Not saying the mechanics are not good there, but they see the same thing over and over. The brain work and heavy problem solving is not there like what you’d find at the mom and pop.
caveat: You won’t learn shit at Jiffy Lube, Walmart, or any of the speed lube service spots! Don’t waste your time.
Those Jiffy Lube joints are automotive vivisection shops!
Stay… away! Keep your car… far away!
I know someone who did not – and got a cross-threaded, air gun applied oil drain bolt for their prize. Almost cost them an engine, too – as opposed to just a Heli coil.
You bet, amigo!
Hey, to paraphrase Dr. Strangelove, I haf a plan…
You could get a beater bike – downtrodden, needs work but could be made to run again – and use it for experimentation purposes. I am talking about something simple and manageable, like a single cylinder dirt bike. It’s got all the basic systems you’d find in a car, but down-scaled, much more accessible and less intimidating. You could buy such a bike for maybe $200 or so. Work on it for fun, learn as you go.
Just food for thought….
Points taken. Cheap project bike doesnt seem like a bad idea, will consider it.
The problem with Haynes and Chilton, especially the later is they try to condense a lot of model years into one book and they often just leave out the year to year changes. I consider Chilton’s to often be worse than no manual at all because I’ve found them to be misleading. I found this by working on a 1982 model and finding just about nothing I ever needed in the book had been updated since the late 60s models. Practically nothing applied to what I had in front of me.
I would recommend the route I took. Which also included theory. I had the advantage of having books to read that were laying around the house from when my father tried to teach himself auto mechanics in the 70s when I was teenager. For the basic intro stuff I read general how-to books on auto maintenance and repair. For more detail on the task and debugging sides I read a 1978 Ford Shop Manual and a more general Motor repair manual. Like Chiltons and Haynes but written for an independent mechanic and it covered every make and model from about the mid/late 60s to 1975 which was the edition of the book. Pretty good… except that just about everything ended with ‘reverse procedure to install’ 🙂
For theory of operation I read “Automotive engines” by Crouse. I believe this book is still available, with new editions every few years. My copy is from the early 1970s.
I also second learning mid 70s to early 80s stuff even if not working on anything of that vintage. The reasoning is that just about everything seen today existed then, but it operated more obviously. Once the theory of operation is grasped it doesn’t take much to then understand what the electronics are doing. More so nibbling away at the complexity in smaller easier to digest pieces.
Which brings me to another important point. An automobile is machine of multiple systems that often interact and often don’t interact with each other. Learning one system at a time is far easier than trying to grasp the whole machine at once.
“I also second learning mid 70s to early 80s stuff even if not working on anything of that vintage. The reasoning is that just about everything seen today existed then, but it operated more obviously.” I agree 100%. When I first stated wrenching on stuff I got lots of satisfaction from its simplicity. Shit, still do! I love older mechanical technology.
Brent, I know what you mean about the Chiltons. I was reading thru the one that came with the Toyota truck I bought yesterday. They try to cram every truck year/model into every chapter. It’s really useless. I need something better.
For basic stuff – oil changes and the like – they’re adequate. I agree that as you dig into more involved stuff, a more involved (and accurate) manual is worth its weight in gold. I have a factory shop manual for all my vehicles. These easily cost $50 or more… used. But the depth of detail, the pictures/diagrams/schematics, etc. – make major work so much easier.
I just changed the starter in my ’81 Mercedes 240D. The Haynes manual (for several years/models) directed me to “remove the through bolt and lower the steering track rod to provide clearance for removal”. I could see this wouldn’t have provided enough clearance and I didn’t want to dismantle the steering anyway. I ended up removing a brace that holds up the air filter – much easier. There are better answers and how-tos on the web than in the manuals.
Great article and great advice. I let a lot of this stuff scare me for a long time. But thrift is a great motivator.
When I cracked up my wife’s car I had no choice but to run down to Certifit, get the fender, bumper and headlight and throw those puppies on! Got a decent paint job from the local Maaco which we had already budgeted for anyway cause the ol’ Honda paint was starting to reveal quite a bit of metal. You can tell a guy who makes junk mail for a living did it, but you have to really look to be able to tell. Hell it looks better than my Cobra did when I got it back from the Ford dealer body shop the first time!
Motor in my Ranger is getting a little tired though, and it’s leaking oil like a sieve. That one makes me nervous…
Thrift is a great motivator – also self-reliance. It’s a good feeling to be able to deal with stuff – the more stuff, the better!
On the Ranger: The oil leak is probably no major thing; gaskets and seals (a dirty, sweaty job – but not super difficult, technically speaking). Tired is something else. If it’s using a lot of oil, that’s gonna cause problems with your exhaust (catalytic converter) in addition to costing you in terms of poor mileage and frequent “tune-ups” (clean, replace oil fouled plugs, etc.)
One option to consider, if the truck is otherwise good, is to swap in a lower miles (or rebuilt) engine. You can save a lot of money this way and get many more years of service out of an otherwise solid vehicle.
Other than the time and tools, is that too terribly difficult? Or is it just more nuts-and-bolts stuff? My experience only goes as far as changing the water pump.
Just because no one else chimed in, I would say, maybe.
Imho, if one can change a water pump, one can replace an engine.
If an inexperienced sixteen year old working under an old shade tree could replace And rebuild an engine using crappy tools, a come-along, and the back of a pickup bed as a re-building surface, then simply replacing an engine shouldn’t be too difficult for someone new to the scene.
That is, if reading and following directions is within ones ability. I suppose too, you could, “just do it” but at a minimum, having a manual is a good idea.
Every car seems to have it’s special requirements when working on it. Knowing those, is helpful. But even if you don’t, things *can* work out ok.
It just depends on what you expect to produce.
Time + effort, divided by experience = result.
If you’ve got a nice place to work on it, a concrete or asphalt floor surrounded by walls (Hey, don’t laugh, doing this outside in Winter with a dirt floor, or in a corn crib, is not my idea of a good time) a good floor jack, some half-way decent tools and a boat load of patience, you’ll likely do ok.
That’s just my amateur/shade tree mechanic opinion. Don’t take it as gospel. YMMV.
Agree.
Now, rebuilding an engine (or doing a cam change, or adjusting valves) involves more fine detail work, including making exacting measurements. For such work, a shop manual, with detailed instructions and specifications/tolerances, etc. is all-but-essential to achieving a good result.
Pulling/replacing an engine is mostly just grunt work.
Good advice for a newbie wrench.
I grew up in the “good old days” when cars had carburetors, and fuel injection was a real marketing feature. If you live in a climate when older, early 80s vintage cars have not rusted away, I’d buy one to learn the basics.
It was a sad time for performance and reliability compared to today, but the simplicity is great to learn on, and the price will be cheap.
The major difference between those cars and today’s cars is that previously a function that was handled mechanically (centrifugal force, vacuum, mechanical pumps, etc) is now handled by a computer making the decision of how much and how long.
Buy a model that was popular – so you’ll have a good chance of your parts store stocking the parts you need.
Today’s cars do it better – no question. Today’s cars are arguably “safer,” though anyone here in or past their forties seems to have made it through OK. If you learn what each function does on one of these cars, it is a natural progression to today’s cars.
Or maybe you’ll just say the hell with today’s cars and modify your early eighties (or seventies, or sixties) vintage steel with some new tech to have all the good (aftermarket fuel injection, overdrive transmission, stiff chassis, FAR better seats, better ignition, better wiring connections, sound isolation, etc.) with none of the bad (seat belt warning buzzer, one or several airbags and associated lights, $200+ headlights, warning stickers everywhere, etc.).
Don’t be afraid to learn. Suck – Squeeze – Bang – Blow.
“Fuel injection is harder” is a common misconception older car bugs have. I learned on a 1985 Corvette that I got in 2004, which has a semi-primitive computer and injection system. (My father gave me a choice between a functioning cheap car or something cooler that was broken and just as cheap, The thing was in roddy shape and needed a complete rebuild, but I love it) My father, who was a lifelong shade tree mechanic didn’t know what to make of it, but honestly, as I worked on it, and later on older carbureted cars, the fuel injection was in fact way easier to handle (this primitive type at least). The early learning curve is basically flat (put it back on how you took it off, no adjustments needed under normal situations), versus a carburetor which required experience or intense experimentation to work with. Modern plug and play fuel injection systems are just as easy. (Not to mention that I get 22mpg out of the thing all these years later on the highway with a 383 stroker in it, and Ill be damned if I could manage that with a holley)
All that said, the car was still a basic 350, and there were no glamor plastic parts blocking access to everything (I thought that was the purpose of the hood) so all the basics were still there for learning.
That’s true!
My main objection is the cost. You can easily spend what it would take to rebuild an entire engine in a carbureted older car on just the EFI system in a modern car.
Plus, they’re less durable.
A cast iron (or aluminum) conventional wet manifold will last practically forever. Modern plastic “dry” manifolds not so much. A carburetor can be rebuilt almost indefinitely – and inexpensively,if you do it yourself. A lot of EFI stuff is throw it away and replace it with an expensive as hell new part.
Each has its pros and cons…
“Today’s cars are arguably “safer,” though anyone here in or past their forties seems to have made it through OK.”
So . . . the fact that the people past their 40’s are still alive, because they’re reading this . . . proves that cars in the ’60s and ’70s were safe?
A lot of people were crushed, impaled or decapitated in those decades. What does their absence from this site tell us about the safety of earlier cars?
“Safety” is not the issue – it’s personal choice.
If I value, say, gas mileage more than theoretical crashworthiness (theoretical, because most “accidents” aren’t and so can be avoided, in which case crashworthiness is abstract) then it should be my decision – not the government’s.
My “safety” is no one’s rightful business except my family’s – certainly not the government’s.