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bikerlbf406
02-23-2009, 07:33 PM
I just replaced the front brake pads & had the rotors turned down on my '97 Explorer. Now it has a grinding/scraping sound coming from the brakes, like it would if it was metal to metal contact. I've had O'Reilly auto parts along with another guy say it should go away in a day or two. However, i'm not so sure, since I've never had such a thing happen when doing brake work. Is this normal or fairly routine thing?

Eric
02-23-2009, 09:05 PM
I just replaced the front brake pads & had the rotors turned down on my '97 Explorer. Now it has a grinding/scraping sound coming from the brakes, like it would if it was metal to metal contact. I've had O'Reilly auto parts along with another guy say it should go away in a day or two. However, i'm not so sure, since I've never had such a thing happen when doing brake work. Is this normal or fairly routine thing?


Doesn't sound right to me. A couple of things come to mind:

* You may have a sticking piston/caliper. When I do a brake job I always check to be sure the piston(s) are not stuck in their bores/move freely, etc.

* The rotor(s) are warped/damaged during the turning - or during re-install. Was an air gun used to put the wheels back on? With late model cars it easy to damage disc brake rotors by over-tightening the lug nuts - which is easy to do with an air gun...

chiph
02-23-2009, 09:26 PM
+1 to air-wrenches being bad for disc brakes. Take it back and tell them the lug nuts need to be torqued to 80 ft-lbs using a torque wrench not a torque stick (torque sticks just aren't accurate enough)

What happens is you get one or two lug nuts that are way looser or way tighter than the others, and that pulls the disc out of true. For want of 10 minutes labor by the mechanic, it ends up costing you several hundred in repairs.

Chip H.

dom
02-23-2009, 10:00 PM
Yeah, don't let them tell you that shet is normal. Either they royally f-ed something up, or they installed some super cheap brake pads.

Either case, take that unit back. Don't pussy foot with them either.

Start with something strong and don't back off.

"I want my vehicle fixed properly, whatever the problem I want it taken care of now"

Brakes, steering & suspension are things you don't mess about with. They have to be working properly!

Dave Brand
02-24-2009, 08:21 AM
It shouldn't be doing that! Does it do it all the time, or only when the brakes are applied? If it's the former, could be that one of the dust shields is bent & rubbing against the disc.

bikerlbf406
02-24-2009, 03:51 PM
I had the guy that done the brakes for me take a look at them today. Turned out the caliper wasnt seated all the way & their was a burr from having the rotors turned stuck between it & the pads. Everything is nice & quiet now.

dom
02-24-2009, 04:46 PM
Glad you got it fixed!

Eric
02-24-2009, 07:33 PM
I had the guy that done the brakes for me take a look at them today. Turned out the caliper wasnt seated all the way & their was a burr from having the rotors turned stuck between it & the pads. Everything is nice & quiet now.


Cool; glad they took care of it for you!

ChevyMan
03-29-2009, 09:49 PM
Speaking of brakes in general, something weird happened to me yesterday. I came to a stop behind another car at a stop light, and after about half a minute, my car kept inching forward although I had my foot firmly on the brake pad, I mean it *seemed* like it was moving forward. Maybe just my imagination? When we finally got going, I kept stepping on the brakes from time to time but nothing to indicate faulty brakes. When I got home I tried it in my driveway but everything turned out okay. Weeeeered! Felt like a leaking master or (rear) brake cylinder. Could be something else to consider? Anyone??

Larry

dom
03-29-2009, 10:09 PM
How's the level in the reservoir? What's the condition of the fluid? When was the last time you bled your brakes. Might have some slack in the breaks if the fluid needs a good bleeding/flush.

It would make sense too, because when your playing the driveway testing you have obviously pumped up the pedal pretty good, so there is some good pressure holding you tight. But, on the other hand if you just come up to a light (no pumping) and are sitting there for a few the slack in the lines (air) has time to catch up and give you a drop in the pressure on the pads which would give you that roll you sensed.

That's my guess..

ChevyMan
03-30-2009, 12:00 AM
How's the level in the reservoir? What's the condition of the fluid? When was the last time you bled your brakes. Might have some slack in the breaks if the fluid needs a good bleeding/flush.

It would make sense too, because when your playing the driveway testing you have obviously pumped up the pedal pretty good, so there is some good pressure holding you tight. But, on the other hand if you just come up to a light (no pumping) and are sitting there for a few the slack in the lines (air) has time to catch up and give you a drop in the pressure on the pads which would give you that roll you sensed.

That's my guess..


1. Reservoir is FULL, (front section all the way up, rear 1/2 in. below)
should both sections be FULL ?

2. Last brake job performed on 10/20/2000 at 44,000 mile mark (which is
less than 10,000 miles ago)

3. Hydraulic system bled (by repair shop).


Hope this helps

Larry

grouch
03-30-2009, 12:39 AM
1. Reservoir is FULL, (front section all the way up, rear 1/2 in. below)
should both sections be FULL ?

2. Last brake job performed on 10/20/2000 at 44,000 mile mark (which is
less than 10,000 miles ago)

3. Hydraulic system bled (by repair shop).


Hope this helps

Larry


Generally, the rear bowl is for the front brakes and the front bowl for the rear. Disc brakes require more fluid so they have a larger bowl. As the pads wear, the level will go down. That's why you remove some fluid before servicing the calipers. Otherwise you can blow corrosive fluid all over the paint. The next time it seems to creep, raise your foot and push again on the pedal. If it stops, then your master cylinder is seeping around the seals and losing pressure allowing you to creep. Sooner or later, you'll step on the pedal and it will go to the floor. You'll be able to reapply right away and build them up but it will get worse until it fails altogether.

ChevyMan
03-30-2009, 05:01 AM
Generally, the rear bowl is for the front brakes and the front bowl for the rear. Disc brakes require more fluid so they have a larger bowl. As the pads wear, the level will go down. That's why you remove some fluid before servicing the calipers. Otherwise you can blow corrosive fluid all over the paint. The next time it seems to creep, raise your foot and push again on the pedal. If it stops, then your master cylinder is seeping around the seals and losing pressure allowing you to creep. Sooner or later, you'll step on the pedal and it will go to the floor. You'll be able to reapply right away and build them up but it will get worse until it fails altogether.

>>Generally , the rear bowl is for the front brakes and the front bowl for the rear. Disk brakes require more fluid so they have a larger bowl.<<

Re-read your post. I think you have the *front* and *rear* bowl mixed up.Sitting behind the wheel, the *front* bowl is LARGER, and the *rear* bowl is SMALLER. You're looking at the master cylinder while standing in front of the car. Larry

Ken
03-30-2009, 07:33 AM
How's the level in the reservoir? What's the condition of the fluid? When was the last time you bled your brakes. Might have some slack in the breaks if the fluid needs a good bleeding/flush.

It would make sense too, because when your playing the driveway testing you have obviously pumped up the pedal pretty good, so there is some good pressure holding you tight. But, on the other hand if you just come up to a light (no pumping) and are sitting there for a few the slack in the lines (air) has time to catch up and give you a drop in the pressure on the pads which would give you that roll you sensed.

That's my guess..

Or it could have been a purely sensory illusion due to a) Something alongside you creeping backwards or moving off very slowly in the opposite direction, or b) The vehicle in front of you slowly creeping backwards. This is the same illusion you can get in a bus or train when another, alongside you starts to move off in the other direction.

Just another possibility.

Ken.

dom
03-30-2009, 11:10 AM
What was the date of the last brake fluid flush?

ChevyMan
03-30-2009, 08:15 PM
What was the date of the last brake fluid flush?

I'm not sure of the date (of flushing) but the last brake job done on 10/20/2000 involved Bleeding(according to the receipt of the work done).

Following instructions in Chilton's, I performed check on air tightness on the booster assembly but found nothing abnormal.

Am taking the car in day after tomorrow for complete brake job and have them flush the system.

Larry

ChevyMan
03-30-2009, 08:27 PM
Or it could have been a purely sensory illusion due to a) Something alongside you creeping backwards or moving off very slowly in the opposite direction, or b) The vehicle in front of you slowly creeping backwards. This is the same illusion you can get in a bus or train when another, alongside you starts to move off in the other direction.

Just another possibility.

Ken.

Yeah, could have been sensory illusion or something like that . Doubt if the car ahead creeping backward if the car is in drive and foot on the brake pedal, UNLESS car in front was a manual tranny and the driver had the foot off the pedal, but the road is pretty level at that corner.

Larry

dom
03-30-2009, 08:37 PM
I would say you are due for a brake bleeding for sure (nine years). I find when I am moving for some time and then sitting at a light I get the same feeling too, that is back when I used to leave the car in drive. Nowadays, well for the past ten years, I put my units in neutral at lights. I hate the feeling of a pulling car and holding the brake when I am at a light.

On my motorcycle I feel like I am going backward all the time at lights. My motorcycle vibrates like crazy when idling though, so that is the reason.