new tires?

[bikerlbf406]

I don't quite recall the penny test all the way, on where it have to be to determine if you need new tires or not. Anyways, when holding the penny upside down to my tires, it comes right to the top tip of Lincoln's head, it doesnt exceed it any. The tires are 235/75 15's if that makes any difference. Would you say it need new tires or will be soon? If so how soon (mileage wise) do you think they have left?

[dom]

That is a hard question to answer. I would guess it depends on the hardness of the rubber (type of tire it is). Really doesn't matter so much though. If it were me I would just replace them. I would estimate you have a few more oil changes worth of tire left. So maybe like 6,000 miles or more if you take it easy. But if you have a nasty wear pattern in the tire, say from a poor alignment your tires could go bad a lot faster.

For me though, I hate to be in that situation with a blow out, slipping on ice/rain, or whatever it may be that I am sitting there saying.. "Why didn't I take care of this before?"

[Eric]

I don't quite recall the penny test all the way, on where it have to be to determine if you need new tires or not. Anyways, when holding the penny upside down to my tires, it comes right to the top tip of Lincoln's head, it doesnt exceed it any. The tires are 235/75 15's if that makes any difference. Would you say it need new tires or will be soon? If so how soon (mileage wise) do you think they have left?

It sounds as though you have adequate tread left - for the next little bit. The thing I'd want to check is the age of the tires (see the sidewall date code) as well as their overall condition. If they're older than about 6 years, replace them soon. If they have a bulge in the sidewall, or any major cracking/signs of physical deterioration, ditch 'em sooner!

Like, right now.

I agree with Dom - don't cheap out on tires. Your ass is worth more to you than the cost of new rubber, right?

[DonTom]

I don't quite recall the penny test all the way, on where it have to be to determine if you need new tires or not.

You can fine the tire penny test right here.

-Don- San Francisco

[bikerlbf406]

Although it was a stretch to get new tires & involved having to get my parents to finance it on their charge card for me; we were able to work it out though for me to get new tires. Thanks for the responses.

[dom]

Having good tires is important. You will be able to have more piece of mind when cruising around now.

Get them to throw in an alignment when you get the new tires installed. Also, keep up with your tire rotations too in order to get max life out of them.

[bikerlbf406]

I couldn't get them to do an alignment for free, however I did get one done because I know it needed one. Total cost was $475. I guess thats not really too bad considering thats for 4 new tires & an alignment.

[ChevyMan]

Dom:

Get them to throw in an alignment when you get the new tires installed. Also, keep up with your tire rotations too in order to get max life out of them.[/quote]

I understand the proper way to rotate radial tires is never to switch from left to right and vice versa, always front to rear and rear to front on the same side. That's the way I was taught long ago.

I recently bought five new Goodyear steel belted radials and on the side wall it says 44 PSI max pressure. I normally put in 32 psi in my old set of similar sized tires. I wonder should I put in more than 32 psi like I have been doing? After all, the pressure would increase when the tires are run hot. What do you all think? Larry

[MikeHalloran]

Use the tire pressure on the door sticker, which is adjusted for that vehicle, not the max pressure on the sidewall, which is adjusted for the worst case vehicle.

If you run the max pressure on a vehicle that's lighter than the max vehicle, you'll get abnormally high center wear, poor traction, and poor directional stability, because the vehicle will be riding on just the center of the tires, not the entire width.

[ChevyMan]

Use the tire pressure on the door sticker, which is adjusted for that vehicle, not the max pressure on the sidewall, which is adjusted for the worst case vehicle.

If you run the max pressure on a vehicle that's lighter than the max vehicle, you'll get abnormally high center wear, poor traction, and poor directional stability, because the vehicle will be riding on just the center of the tires, not the entire width.

>>>Use the tire pressure on the door sticker, which is adjusted for that vehicle,......<<

Those numbers on the door sticker were for the original bias ply tires which came with the car from the factory, completely different in size from the replacement tires so I can't use them. They were 26 for the front and 28 for the rear tires, which in my opinion are too low for the radial replacements.Tell me if I'm mistaken. Larry

[Ken]

Dom:

Get them to throw in an alignment when you get the new tires installed. Also, keep up with your tire rotations too in order to get max life out of them.

I understand the proper way to rotate radial tires is never to switch from left to right and vice versa, always front to rear and rear to front on the same side. That's the way I was taught long ago.

I recently bought five new Goodyear steel belted radials and on the side wall it says 44 PSI max pressure. I normally put in 32 psi in my old set of similar sized tires. I wonder should I put in more than 32 psi like I have been doing? After all, the pressure would increase when the tires are run hot. What do you all think? Larry
[/quote]

The required pressure will depend on the type of tyre you now have fitted, also the wheel size will alter the pressure requirement. Your best bet is to email the tyre manufacturer (giving full wheel and tyre data) who will, usually, be able to advise the correct pressure. My guess, from a bit of web-searching, is the the pressure for your tyres will lie somewhere between 35 and 38 psi - but check with the experts. (Your tyre depot may even have the data available.)

Ken.

[ChevyMan]

Get them to throw in an alignment when you get the new tires installed. Also, keep up with your tire rotations too in order to get max life out of them.

I installed 4 new tires a couple of weeks ago. This morning I pulled out a nail almost an inch long entering at an angle between the treads but no air leaking after a test applying some soapy water at the site. Should I do something about it in case I get a flat on the road somewhere? Anyone experienced this before?

Larry

[Eric]

I installed 4 new tires a couple of weeks ago. This morning I pulled out a nail almost an inch long entering at an angle between the treads but no air leaking after a test applying some soapy water at the site. Should I do something about it in case I get a flat on the road somewhere? Anyone experienced this before?

Larry

Based on what you've written, it sounds as though the nail did not penetrate all the way through. Once you removed the nail, the rubber, etc. filled in the gap (no air leaks) so you ought to be ok. Just keep an eye on it. If a leak is there/develops, you'll want to get the tire patched.