Quote Originally Posted by DonTom
I just got a phone call from BBA remanufacturing who has my CAB (Controller, Anti-lock Brake) module. As I expected, they found a problem that would keep my ABS light on. The have already repaired it and it's in the mail now and I will be able to reinstall it next week some time (the only real test, IMO).

If it all works, as I assume it will, with no more ABS failure indications, I will then consider changing the brake fluid. I guess I can do it myself as long as I am careful to keep the master cylinder full at all times. If I get air into the system, it requires an expensive scan tool (price tag is several times more than this Jeep is worth) to bleed the brakes because of the ABS -- which means that it would probably have to be towed to be fixed right. The CAB module is NOT part of the ABS hydraulic stuff, so it could safely be removed.

I assume there is a mickey mouse way to apply 12 VDC (or less) to the ABS pump motor to bleed the brake ABS, but none of my books mention such--they all say do it with the scan tool. But I don't see what a scan tool can do to bleed the brake ABS other than apply voltage on the ABS pump motor at the correct time. I guess if I screw up, I can experiment with such until I get the air out.

-Don-





Yes - and keep an assistant around to watch the fluid level as you work and top off as necessary.

On non-ABS cars, you can "gravity bleed" each wheel; it takes a little time, but it can be easier than the traditional method.

Also, one can buy "speed bleeder" screws - one-way valves that replace the OEM bleeder screws. All you have to do is turn them slightly to open; fluid can escape, but air doesn't get sucked back in. They are very handy! (I have them installed on the 'Bird...) Summit Racing carries them, I think.